While fashion week audiences have seen quite their fair share of florals at London, Erdem’s Spring 2015 collection takes it to the nth degree. The entire collection of dresses and gowns consist of original variations on a theme of floral patterning, embroidery and detailing. The designer does veer off that path with some pieces in the collection, so for those who want an Erdem dress without all the flowery stuff, there’s something for you too (in white mostly). There are many highlights from collection including a beautifully dark feathered dress, the aforementioned white embroidered dress, the long far east print gown with gold leaf detailing. While the sum of the parts have been done better in previous seasons, the individual efforts on their own are much stronger.
The DAKS Spring 2015 collection is one of the best shown this season thus far. There’s variety and an aesthetic sophistication. The designer shows range from the high waisted shorts to the shimmery zip dress in black to the feathered dress with fitted grey top. The DAKS collection has gowns and an evening strapless dress with overlay detailing around the edges that will simply have tongues wagging. Along with the usual names in bold, Spring 2015 has the potential of being must have for the season.
The Antipodium collection was displayed ironically on podiums in an installation setting. The collection varied from buttoned down print dresses with whimsical characters flying through clouds to he more serious lime lame’ zipper dress belted with a plungin neckline. The zipper runs through from mid-chest down on through and is definitely a highlight of the collection. There are variations on a theme when it comes to the print and color of the dress when looking at separates in the collection. So the nearly fluorescent color makes you know that its pretty much unmistakeable that what you’re looking at is something from Antipodium. Highlight of the collection is a colored color block button-down dress.
Bora Aksu’s Spring 2015 collection doesn’t deviate from the consistency of the designer’s past collections. Spring 2015 sees a designer with embroidery detailing in violets, peaches and pastels. The collection is a very feminine and youthful expression. Aksu doesn’t veer off too much in the way of sexy or daring. It’s prim but not necessarily proper, there are middle eastern-inspired patterns. His clientele will be appreciative overall because there’s something for nearly any fan of Bora Aksu.
This should be the perfect season for this label. Leather is everywhere now and they were one of the first to utilise is so much way back when with leather leggings, so can be masterful in ruling this fabric. Leena Similu has turned her attention from the signature legging to the form of the dress. The material (recycled from old creations) has been manipulated into various forms; patchwork, layered strips, panels and embellished with lighter fabrics such as pleated chiffon and net to create a new body of work which is structured and soft. As with many presentations this season a short film accompanies the work to show off the clothes in a different media. – Emily Jerman
Mark Fast is all about the knit, it’s his signature and trademark, so it was a little surprising to see the runway filling with leather and chiffon looks. Whilst the knit wear is ever progressive and hugs to the girls body like a second skin, the introduction of bigger sculptured pieces such as the accordion cardigan, oversized shoulder dress and the full length gown were stunning. The leather was just hard to read. The shape was simple, perhaps too much so. I realise you can’t knit with leather, although I could be wrong, so perhaps he is working on a new technique for next season and this was a slow introduction. I do hope so. – Emily Jerman
Paul Smith is a master of the English tom-boy. Dapper tailoring and knitwear with a slight eccentricity was the flavour for AW11, a look which is very much falling back into favour with the menswear at the moment. Nearly every girl sent down the runway was in trousers, be it rolled up boyfriend fit jeans, cords, or cigarette pants. Accents of bright colour were thrown in to keep the attention and feminine fabrics such a chiffon and silk punctuated the tweeds and denim to confirm to us we were watching the womenswear show. Shamelessly geeky, this librarian has taste. Much like Margaret Howell, Paul Smith is a long time favourite and these shows are how to showcase the British at their best. – Emily Jerman
There was bound to be colour, and there was an abundance. The elegant lady who walked was, in part, the result of Fulton’s intense interest with the Coco Chanel and Duke of Westminster affair when in Scotland. Chic tweed shift dresses in brilliant yellow and black, pearl encrusted jackets matched with pink and purple print wide legged trousers, embellished hats and fur trims. The prints of skylines and art nouveau design were of the same period, and involved a summer like palette of teal, mint and peach with navy touches on fabulous flowing column dresses and trousers. The collection was punchy and experimental, more evolved from last season, and better for it. – Emily Jerman
It was a big day for the British labels today. On front row was Samantha Cameron, supporting the newgen designers David Koma and Holly Fulton. Daphne Guiness also attending looked resplendant, as usual. Spots are proving a hit this season, Marc Jacobs in NY and David Koma here in London. Clean and stream lined silhouettes for the opening section had varying sized circles laser cut out of the panels or printed onto the clothes, creating a precise and graphic symmetry. Black and nude dominated before the colours seeped in via a face print and pom pom trims on the shoulders, cuffs and finally a ruff style in bright yellow. The laser cut shells were layered over a green, blue or pink base. The spotted capes and long A-line skirts in the middle of the show were a welcome change of silhouette in amongst the more structured shapes, and proving Koma can create movement. – Emily Jerman
Set in the incredible Royal Courts of Justice, this was promising to be a thrill of a show. Red Label, we are told, has been developed with long standing Westwood member, Murray Blewett. Heritage and tradition is important to this label and they want to encourage more designers to return to using and sourcing English wool, fabrics and knits. Red label displayed Blewett’s interpretation of typical Britishness in people observed in his neighbourhood of Portobello Market. The hair woven into crowns and outsized bowler hats amplifies the tradition, whilst the wool coats and riding themes served the country sense. A Westwood show is rarely understood first time round, the more you look, the more you see, and as pretty much anything goes the taffeta cocktail dress, tartan mini skirt and pinstripe suiting did not look that out of place together, especially given the context. Much like the market, keeping looking and you will unearth a gem. – Emily Jerman