The youthful Rebecca Minkoff audience is the envy of many a designer. That youthful audience never leaves you (or so you hope) and as they get older they continue on being the audience that has come to look to your new developments every season. For Spring 2016, Minkoff doesn’t abandon her roots as a designer that understands what her fans want. She espouses a love of mod with short hemlines and gladiator shoes and Lucite heels as well as maxi tank dresses. They all came in strong tones of black and ivory and cream. She also had extensive slits in her dresses that were tied in with lace hoops whether functional or purely for aesthetics, it worked to great effect. One would be mistaken to assume that the mod influence was 60s inspired. It may be that that’s the case, but the look is decidedly modern and refreshing especially done with the laced up slit. Just an FYI, that leather jumper is a favorite in the offices here, eliciting a bunch of oohs, when it came up on the big screen.
Nearly 10 years ago we interviewed Carin Rodebjer when she was in her nascent stages of New York design life. Our editor at the time asked her where she saw herself 10 years from that point. She answered that it would be fun to show a full collection and be clearer with her design. Fast forward nearly 10 years later and it looks as if Rodebjer has accomplished that and then some. Her Spring 2016 collection is evidence in motion. White silk reflected light, diaphanous silk dresses amplified model movement, culottes that looked excellent on longer legs due to the strides involved. Her collection is Stockholm meeting New York with the latter’s urban bent coming through more than the former. The prints designed by Liselotte Watkins also aided the lively movement that was ubiquitous from the collection. If you haven’t been exposed to Carin Rodebjer’s collections, take notes, she’s evolving into a powerhouse in the industry.
Lela Rose has a near religious following of admirers and her collection is a reminder of why. Her collections are not formulaic, though there is a formula – make it feminine and make it pretty. This comes across in many ways during her Fall 2015 showing. You see pieces like the criss-cross halter, the fringe work and detailing throughout, the feathered print dress in black and rose, black print petal detailing against a grey dress palette, the rose coat with fringe, the square shouldered dress with embroidery and cut-outs, the black and white print plunging v-neck dress all made for that Lela Rose parishioner. The change for Fall 2015 though is that some of the collection appeals to a wider audience because there is that edge when looking at the daring necklines and the ever so slight triangular window that bares a navel. Sure it’s intentional, who wants to be in a box? Not Lela Rose and not in this beautiful showing for Fall 2015.
The Costello Tagliapietra Fall 2015 collection is based on the sophisticate, the confident and the feminine. The last one may be at odds with the photos because of the influence of the trousers with suspenders and the pants suits with vest and quasi male oriented coats. But it’s definitely a slight of hand more than anything else. This is a feminine collection that exudes an air of beauty underneath all of that strength. Here we’re looking at the long deep mauve coat, the grey loose trouser suit with vest and layered blazer, the grey patterned plunging v-neck dress with large buttons offset very nicely with rouge and orange plaid scarf. It’s all beautiful, feminine and strong. The teeny boppers can’t wear this, the professional and the affluent can.
SYDNEY (March 10, 2014), With less than five weeks to go until Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia, IMG Fashion today released the Official schedule for the 2014/15 Spring Summer season, outlining the 72 designer brands showcasing this season. The week kicks off with Mercedes-Benz Presents Carla Zampatti followed by the Spring Summer Collections from: Ae’lkemi, Aje, Alex Perry, Alice McCall, Aurelio Costarella, Bec & Bridge, Betty Tran, Bianca Spender, By Johnny, Cameo, Desert Designs, Duvenage, Ellery, Emma Mulholland, Gail Sorronda, Galanni, Ginger & Smart, Haryono Setiadi, Hayley Elsaesser, Ixiah, Jayson Brunsdon, Kahlo, Lan Yu, Leroy Nguyen, Macgraw, Maticevski, Michael Lo Sordo, NLP, Phoenix Keating, Romance Was Born, Serpent & The Swan, Song For The Mute, Strateas. Carlucci, Suboo, Swarovski, Talulah, Unif.M, We Are Handsome and Zhivago. NSW Deputy Premier and Minister for Trade and Investment Andrew Stoner welcomed the release of this year’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia official schedule. “In just a few weeks, the eyes of the fashion industry will be on Australia’s fashion capital and creative hub, Sydney, as our best emerging and established designers take to the runway,” Mr Stoner said. As part of the New Generation platform that has introduced some of Australia’s biggest names to the global stage, IMG […]
Lie Sang Bong showcased a highly abstract color collection with varied prints for Fall 2014. Bong started the collection with a striking coat that had ominous blood-red circle prints placed throughout. The designer continued with the red assault on various dresses and coats. Some of the dresses contained a print that looked as if flames engulfed a mountain (no, that’s not a misprint). It was a graphical effect that was attention-getting because of the elaborate nature of the print. There were also checkered red and black effects on a coat that had leather accents both on the collar and wrist. The designer also showcased a deep blue print dress with yellow and nude prints that merged into the blue and a black banding at the bottom. He then completed the collection the way he started by showing a stunning red gown with sheer material at the neckline and curved black fill-ins on the sides of the dress. It was the highlight of a show that had some attractive items and overall was individually better than the sum total.
Was the Badgley Mischka Fall 2014 collection beautiful? Yes. Was it ground breaking? I doubt that was the intent. So this review hinges on whether your expectation for the collection is something altogether different from the design duo OR whether beauty will do. The latter is done without question primarily because of the variety and the detailing on every dress. There is an elegance that permeates throughout this Fall 2014 collection from the gold swirl and gray print dress with sheer top to the strapless black dress to the floor length black dress with shimmery cold accents. You’re left with the impression that the designers were more concerned about creating an aesthetic centered on feminine form and beauty that trying to reinvent the wheel. Did they deliver on that mission? They did, in spades.
Milly by Michelle Smith is a collection that always has a fun flirty aspect. But the designer took it a step further for the Fall 2014 collection by incorporating darker colors with same flirty aesthetic. Don’t misconstrue flirty for simple. There’s still a sophistication to the long tail direction of the collection. This season shows a juxtaposition of the two. Smith starts off the collection with pleated high-waisted trousers coupled with a lightly feathered blouse and continues on with an accordion skirt and beautiful buttonless pea coat with wide lapels in white, a sheer skirt is matched with a leather criss cross patterned top and a personal favorite is a ruffled black strapless dress that falls right above the ankles. The collection as a whole shows a lot more in the way of variation than others seen during fashion week. Smith keeps the Milly principle while daring to try something different at the same time.
Reem Acra was the talk of fashion week in New York this past September with her Spring 2014 collection. Although she’s been a prominent designer for a good long while, the Spring 2014 collection was (and is) a trailblazer. She seems to have carried that on in the form of stunning dresses for her Fall 2014 collection. Although there is less red than the previous collection (save for one dramatic floral embroidered strapless gown), it is no less beautiful. Acra this season plays very subtly with prints, and cutouts as in the silver metallic dress with leather high belted waist and with the light violet wrap with triangular cutout from waist to just near the shoulder (accented with a deep violet fur). There’s the black white and gold strapless gown that belies the look of flames that is a definite highlight of the collection. Is it as ground breaking as the Spring 2014 collection? That’s yet to be seen. But by itself it is easily one of the stronger collections shown so far for the season.
Alessandra Meskita’s Fall 2014 collection is elegantly sexy. That’s sometimes hard to pull off primarily because too much elegance can come off as aged or even boring. The Meskita 2014 collection strikes the right balance making effective use of leather (as in the plunging neckline black dress), and the strapless red vamp dress. Some aspects of her collection are pulled straight out of a LA Noir detective novel. There’s then the full on checkered pants suit that throws the pant suit convention out of the window, again with plunging neck line and the darker colors. You can see the Brazillian influence in the pantless suit bound tightly at the ribs with a black band. For a first time viewing by this author, the Meskita collection was a bit of a treat because it is to the left of some collections shown during fashion week. Not startling so, but enough to raise eyebrows.