Photographer: Anne-Marie Michel Fashion Editor: Jodie Spragg Makeup/hair stylist: Sophie Moore using Bobbi Brown Model: Julia Nevs at Leni’s Models Fall doesn’t mean drab colors that portend a melancholy mood leading into a dark winter. It can be expressive. It can mean beauty. It can have a vibrancy of color that goes beyond other seasons that are commonly known for color (Spring and Summer we’re looking at you). In this Foto series, London-based photographer Anne-Marie Michel and team utilize an array of designers to show how expressive and vibrant multiple colors for Fall can be. Take the hint and revel in her interpretation of the season:
How minimal is “Chinatown” when a myriad of colors is introduced that may or may not have much to do with Chinatown. Don’t tell that to Katie Gallagher, whose Spring 2016 collection took a life on its own. Whether its aptly named is of no import because it is a solid collection for the season that takes notes silk and applies them onto slip dresses, a halter apron in solid black that shifted with a sinewy grace, a sheer dress that highlighted the designer’s ability to show versatility and let’s mention colors as well. The black, gold and red parts of the collection consisted of the heart of what was shown gold oversized trousers are less statement and more the way forward for this season from Gallagher. An oversized ¾ jacket in white over a one piece in deep red matched with red sandals made this collection decidedly eastern inspired with a New York bent. You may be wearing a piece from Katie Gallagher in the Spring and not realize its intent, but no matter, the sharp, yet minimal styling will be all the intent that’s needed.
Donna Karan’s Fall 2015 DKNY collection is a straightforward foray into primary colors and with a nod to oversized pieces. With the exception of a few dresses, Karan’s collections of knits, and neck hiding sweaters came off as a bit of a change of pace. If you’ve been following the recurring theme here, the collections shown thus far have called back to the 70s. Karan is a drummer marching to her own beat with DKNY Fall 2015. Oversized grey coats fall over deep v neck sweaters layered over large loose turtle neck sweaters in nearly every primary color and some bright ones as well. Dress that can double as sweats if that were possible also adorn the collection here and there. An intelligent deep grey pant suit that I would without hesitation match with the deep grey herringbone coat also work its way in the collection. It’s not hit you over the head wow, and it seems that wasn’t really Karan’s attempt. her namesake collection will most likely do that, but this DKNY is professional and deeply urban.
Aside from possibly Louis Vuitton, Herve Leger is possibly one of the most imitated brands in fashion. There are a multitude of reasons for this, one of the most prominent being that the fit of a Leger dress is nearly unmatched. It can be imitated, but its hard to really be Herve Leger. It seems this season Max Azria went all out to show why that is the case. He continued the theme we saw in his namesake line, using geometric shapes in print, but also turned it a bit on its ear by adding a kaleidoscope effect with the colors. What you find in the Spring/Summer 2013 Herve Leger collection is a multitude of triangular shapes all placed in varied positions creating a patterned effect. In a word, the collection is simply mesmerizing as a result. Don’t wear these dresses near someone who has taken some sort of hallucinogenic, they will trip out. The effect is a collection whose individual pieces are strong and as a whole is great to look at and even better to wear.
Jun Takashi must be up there in the imaginary lists of hardest working people in fashion, beauty and perfume. HolyGrace and Holy Grapie are two complimentary perfumes launched with Commes des Garcons during Paris Fashion Week earlier this year and finally available as of this writing. Here’s a cut to the chase moment. The press release stated that HolyGraphie smells like “babies and sensuality”. The two don’t really go together unless you’re thinking a soft scent that doesn’t ignite the olfactory senses. The complement to the HolyGrapie scent is the parent scent called HolyGrace. This one has a searing hint of ginger and pimento a very slight cinnamon air and just a note of vanilla. Both scents marry the Commes des Garcons lifestyle with a softer edge than previous releases and is softer still than the newest fragrance, Wonderwood. Of the two the Papierdoll recommendation is HolyGraphie because of the lighter scent, though either will do.
Fashion is haunted by trends of seasons past. Normally you'll find yourself wincing at old photos from an earlier decade when shoulder pads were in. Bell bottoms are now the thing as illustrated by our retro article this month.
Can someone tell makeup companies that even the most jaded beauty writer will swoon and gush like a teen in front of a boy band if they come up with creative packaging? Forget the efficacy of whatever the product
Pierre Garoudi went dark for his fall collection. While never known for using a myriad of colors, Garoudi’s collection stayed away from the external distractions that multiple colors could bring and focused more on structural shapes and actual fabrics. A ruffle-necked tan dress was a highlight because of it’s aesthetic but also because it was easily wearable. An asymmetrical gray dress with floral accent near the shoulders was sexy and also easily wearable. This wearable theme played well with Garoudi’s collection in total. This definitely a collection to covet for the Fall.
The Yigal Azrouël collection was hauntingly beautiful. Using a palate of deeply rich and dark colors, Azrouel for 15 minutes had the audience looking pleased if not somewhat puzzled. There was this intentional disjointedness within the line that Azrouel stated was done for effect. Each piece, he surmised, was meant to stand alone. There was no doubting that the designer crafted and honed his art. He knew what he was going for and found it. If that seems somewhat nebulous it again, was intentionally so. Stand out, stand alone pieces from the collection include a light and free flowing dress embroidered with feathers, a set of dresses in asymmetrical shapes and a feathered dress that moved only through the material effect. If the collection looked rough around the edges, it again, was intentionally so, that gruff effect (and like the seasons before) was obvious to the point that it brilliantly made sense.