What, no show? Oh Nonoo!! But wait, Misha Nonoo, may have just figured out what others in fashion are still figuring, social media means that viral collection shows best when you control the initial message. What was the initial message? I am doing it my way. Nonoo showed off this light but nearly gender neutral collection via social media and the word spread on and on. Shot with a bit of a horizontal effect, Nonoo displayed a-line skirts, coveralls and culottes with summer separates. There’s this parochial school pinafore with boxy pleating and sundresses that all felt as if Nonoo was sending a well-crafted message about the direction of Spring 2016. Is it a departure from her previous collections, sure, will it work? The social media darlings are saying she’s already there.
There is a decidedly athletic look to Alexander Wang’s Spring 2016 collection and its definitely with purpose. The striped trousers in grey and black is a fashion lover’s dream due to its versatility.The striped jacket with same colors paired with belted shorts and a crop shirt is serious and New York urban chic as well. This is no Balenciaga folks, this is the eponymous brand that attaches no theme, no overarching statement, just Alexander Wang as he is. Another highlight was a white side slit dress with multi-fringed layering and netted bra underneath. All of these pieces were paired with variations of designer athletic footwear or sandals that espoused an ease uncommon in these high end forays. It could be that Wang’s direction post-Balenciaga is to just be free and in doing so, he’s being himself. 10 years later, keeping the party going is a powerfully sexy collection.
One gets the sense that viewing a Givenchy runway show in New York that the city is the backdrop for the collection, but in reality the collection became the backdrop for the city. Riccardo Tisci showed Givenchy’s best to nearly 1,000 onlookers and no one could have left disappointed with what they saw. Part of it was because of the designer’s homage to the city and the 9/11 anniversary, but part of it was also a celebration of fashion. The Rouleau-strapped camisoles adorned with lace edges became a perfect accessory for blank pants tailored expertly. The kimono coats and embellished crepe tuxedo jackets beckoned for Spring (let’s skip a season, shall we?). The couture sheer feathered dress was a highlight not just for this show but for all of New York fashion week (and we’re only a day and a half in).
There is a passion and elegance in Josie Natori’s Spring 2016 bow. It is decidedly Asian inspired and the designer said so much at her presentation. To that end, you’re presented with a collection that is notable for the calligraphic artwork displayed on both dresses and kimonos. She does the mix of black and white to great effect. Some designers are guilty of making that color choice a bland one. Natori is not one of them. Adorned on a floor length white dress is sharp black brush stroke prints. A near barcode asymmetric print strapless dress remains a personal favorite. When Natori strays from the black and white theme she shows flashes of a less severe more feminine look. It is welcoming, but allows you to appreciate the monotone look even more when taking the collection in as a whole. Evening-wear is a strength of Natori and this being her first showing of this nature, it’s scary in a good way where she may be able to take the collection in the future.
You know the form-fitting body con dresses that work every contour of the feminine shape made famous by Herve’ Leger on the streets of Miami and Ibiza, they’re not gone, they’re just transformed for Spring 2016. Max Azria’s collection of form-wrapping dresses takes a decidedly steroid-like bent with at least 20 different pieces following the theme only dramatically different. It’s where the strength of the collection lies. Think cream colored cut-outs that reveal everything and nothing at the same time. Think the belted strapless dress with banded patterns. Also see the diamond cutout halter dress with beading and banding throughout in a beautiful silver/white hue. The Leger collection is the envy of duplicators who have no idea how to make their items works from Azria’s origins.
Lookbooks are a dime a dozen. This is especially the case with the advent of Fall collections. Youngmi Ha’s Hanah Fall 2015 collection is all about working with geometric shapes to achieve an aesthetic that’s many notches below vamp and more reflective of the modern woman. Subdued patterns in monochrome rules the roost here. You have embellished oversized items but not cartoonish in manner. They effect as a result is one that will make the woman looking for something from someone different ecstatic. It hits shelves in the next month or so.
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Prabal Gurung’s rise most likely started before Michelle Obama decided to wear one of his pieces, but that definitely didn’t hurt and this Fall 2015 collection seems like a continuation of his march towards the more daring if not bolder. Gurung’s use of fur is sparing if not purposeful unlike others seen during this season. He also shows an affinity for the plunging V neckline done to great effect on light burgundy dress. His gowns remain the thing to wear for state dinners and high society functions, so there is no abandonment there with the deep blue and black floor length shimmering gown leading the way, but also the just below the knee sleeveless black dress that sways effortlessly. His deep red dresses are an exercise in mastery primarily because he’s able to asymmetrically shift below the waist and create a slit where none would exist. It’s fun watching his Fall 2015 and it will most likely be the same wearing it.
Idan Cohen’s Fall 2015 collection is as beautiful as it is revealing. Cohen goes the sensual route baring more than just a little skin but also creating inviting pieces including gowns, mini dresses, pants suits and the occasional leg baring dress in an inverted V. What you get is multiple instances of deep v-neck plunging necklines, the quasi ballet dress in all of it’s shimmering glory, the shoulder baring halter dress with a beautiful eye slit effect. You get the sense that even with the more traditional dresses in his collection that this is not overtly sexual per se’ this is simply an appreciation for the feminine form. And he plays on that appreciation to multiple effects. In addition the recurring theme that we’ve seen in Fall 2015 comes up again here with that retro 70s feel. And again, it’s done well here. Of course there are exceptions – the peach pants suit comes to mind, primarily because it disjointed and creates a strange flare effect above the hips but overall that doesn’t detract from this Fall 2015 effort.
One of the recurring themes I’ve been reading elsewhere and with some of the writers here is a very retro, very 70s look to Fall 2015. I didn’t get that until seeing David Tlale’s Fall 2015 presentation. The collection is steeped in a 70s aesthetic, in particular the brushstroke print pants suits, dresses and skirts. The satin tops with detailed folding, the adrogynous aesthetic in all black for some of the menswear, the sharp shoulders all harken to that look back. He does it to great effect when you see his long dress/gowns because they’re so different, you get the sense that he was going for a wow factor from the outset. Even when he does bring it in via a grey shimmery v-neck dress, there are metallic touches that provide a left-feeling line. He’s got the feminine form down and in mind with his gowns. The wish here is that he did more in that vein because you see flashes of brilliance in that direction, but he’s the creator and we’re the consumer – and consume we will.