Spring 2011 Collections
Gottex SS 2011September 24, 2010
Molly Grad is the chief designer of the Gottex line and has been the past 11 years. A graduate of the renowned Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in London, she worked with the biggest designer in fashion, Stella McCartney, Gianfranco Ferre and more. Her expertise has led to support Gottex with her ingenious designs, internationally recognized for her sexy swimwear silhouettes original in 1999. The strength of Molly Grad is in always exploring new forms, new materials and successfully translating with technical proficiency as garments and swimwear.
For Spring / Summer 2011, Molly Grad was inspired by nature, water and sunsets. She wanted to share her creations, create an upbeat and frivolous atmosphere. Her greatest mission is to define the curves and lines of her clothes by color, detail and quality of materials used. She has overcome the limitations of fabric by offering us a line with colorful textures. She has brilliantly used a variety of materials. We could see, extravagant pieces bathing in glitter, lame’, lycra with metallic finish, lace, etc.. The colors were equally eye-catching with its bright blues, reds, corals, greens and even the use of black! There were draped straps falling on the shoulders thereby enhance the neckline, hips indentations, etc.. Everything was designed to enhance a woman’s body.
View the French version of this review at our sister site Triptyqu3.com.Rachel LeBeau
Boudoir d’Huitres Spring 2011 CollectionSeptember 15, 2010
The presentation was simple but effective. The selection of models was impeccable. The Boudoir d’Huitres show had very tall models who walked confidently despite the huge heels they must wear. The presentation was not very long, but the atmosphere was subdued and tribal music was nevertheless able to carry us into the world of Boudoir d’Huitres for the duration of the presentation. For her spring / summer 2011 collection, designer Mimi Plange, was inspired by her native South Africa. Her inspirations for color, was found when she went to look at the enchanting sunsets offered ny her native country. Mimi Plange has therefore concentrated her collection around the colors brown, beige, dark blue, green, yellow and white. Nothing too extravagant, just grateful to her origins and her culture. As for the pieces she constructed, unlike what most of the designers offered since the beginning of fashion week, more structured items. We were able to find bustiers consisting of silk and jackets cut in a more conventional way but with contrasting fabric collar and cuffs. The dresses had classic cuts but each had small detail that made it unique. Finally, the prints were large, but fits easily with the rest of the collection.
In short, she was a designer who was nice to discover and we will continue to follow for a long time.
Read the entire French review on our sister site Triptyqu3.com here.Rachel LeBeau
Academy of Art University Spring 2011 CollectionSeptember 14, 2010
Since 2005, the Academy of Art University has introduced new designer talent to people in the industry and the public. Each year the best emerging designers graduating from the Academy of Art University in San Francisco present their collections during New York Fashion Week. As a springboard for their careers, these promising young designers have the opportunity to present their line in front of hundreds of people including people renowned in the fashion all this, in a grand hall at Lincoln Center. A summary of 7 collections seen on the runway to introduce you to the designers to watch, those who could become tomorrow’s great names in fashion.
Recognized for his dyes handmade and water-based dyes, Jungah Lee gave an aged look to his collection. Using his stain, clothing latex and silk while following the Antique trend for Spring 2011, the designer has proven to the industry its originality and passion. Korean traditional dresses being the basis of his inspiration, a trench coat of latex, however, caught my attention.
Inspired by the photography of Helmut Newton, Cara Chiappetta, an intern working for NICE and Michael Kors has more experience in the field of fashion. For her first collection, she has applied to minut detail fabrics that contain futuristic-looking nylon and volumes. Construction with materials such as rubber, silk and wool, yet it is her method of bonding that distinguishes her work from other designers at this stage.
Llewellyn and Louie Xiang Zhang
Being in men’s wear, this designer pair’s collection is based on the duality between hard and soft, this contrast is well exploited for what ends up being a balanced silhouette. It is in a constant continuity that the duo has announced clean cuts and structured carves, knits for men that are strong and elegant at once. A work-in-progress that when meticulous is successful for both designers and perfectionists.
Print Collaboration offered us a collection boho-Rock’n'Roll straight from the 60s, the maxi-dress with detailed ruffles look well done. The mixture of busy patterns and sunglasses gave an atmosphere that had a grunge look reminiscent of a renewed Woodstock. Print Collaboration designers proved that they had a vision of young and fun fashion with dresses in a version for toddlers.
The best collection of evening is the series by April Howard because it was precise and edgy. Working leather in a palette of different brown pieces, the designer was inspired by the novel by Cormac McCarthy’s The Road. She offered clothing lines in a very interesting material and unusual colors and this for an entire collection. April Howard is a collection dared with tone on tone in cuts that were organic and pure. It is a great look to adopt for summer.
Drawing her inspiration from science fiction movies, the line represents a rebel breaking the rules and laws. Working overlays silk clothes, she designs the different layers as armor, cage dress integral part of his collection.
The ornamentation is the watchword of the collection of Marila Korovilas. The metal and inlay with multiple gold and silver beads affixed on the dresses of silk and lace have the effect of creating a rich look and glow. Note: the swimsuit cover of embellishment for a fancy party at the beach.
Read the French version of this review at our sister site Triptyqu3.comroxanne doucet
Alexandre Herchcovitch Spring 2011 CollectionSeptember 14, 2010
Known for his outlandish collections and controversy, Alexandre Herchcovitch, the famous Brazilian designer, presented a diverse collection of oversized volumes in a palette of colors that pop. Less edgy than usual, and dropping his more provocative ideas for the season, Alexandre Herchcovitch has focused on shapes, colors and space offering futuristic architectural pieces delivered for the Spring 2011 collection.
(photography Dennis Hinkson for Papierdoll Magazine)
Inspired by the abstract expressionist artists such as Barnett Newman and Mark Rothko, Alexander Herchcovitch unveiled dresses with graphic shapes and vibrant colors like turquoise, pink, orange and lime green shades in square or applique. The New Age spirit was being felt on the balloon-sleeved dresses that were ultra-wide which was printed basically throwing paint on fabric sheen.
The collection of the designer was coherent and seemed studied both at the level of styling and accessories. The looks were tacked with monochrome shoes and sunglasses in the same shades for a perfect match. Designed by Alexandre Herchcovitch in collaboration with the brand Mykita, glasses with colored lenses graphics designed to match your clothes for a unified and dignified and exalted Brazilian culture. One very good presentation of the season.
View the French version of this review at our sister site Triptyqu3.comroxanne doucet