New york fashion week
Tory Burch Spring 2011 CollectionSeptember 16, 2010
It was in the studio of the fashion week tents at Lincoln Center where the presentation of Tory Burch’s line was held. Thirty models were aligned on a central gateway and proudly wore the latest Spring / Summer 2011. This collection was pleasantly surprising and appealing. Impeccable styling showed off the installations. There were warm colors such as orange, yellow and coral, but also softer colors such as cream, pink, hints of blue and white.
Tory Burch was able to usher the return of macramé in a beautiful way. There was a beautiful skirt pattern macramé, all arranged on a blouse and also a lovely long cream cardigan . A mix that, at a already had me on board. Denim colors mixed with print blouses brightened the collection that still quite muted compared to everything that had been presented so far. Skirts to the ankle, long cardigans, the use of flax and denim were prominent. With this collection, Tory Burch was able to revive traditional pieces that and ended up transforming them something quite sophisticated and tasteful.
I could tell you more, but a picture is worth a thousand words, view the gallery to see for yourself.
View the French review here on our sister site Triptyqu3.com.Rachel LeBeau
Jose Duran Spring 2011 CollectionSeptember 15, 2010
Is Jose Duran ready for primetime? Is he the next (insert major designer here)? Not quite yet, though that’s not to say it won’t happen, it will. Duran shows flashes of brilliance challenging normal conventions of design. He constructed a collection of solid monotone colors with a red thrown in here or there. The collection was decidedly dark and different compared to what one would normally find at a conventional New York fashion show. Highlights of the collection include an asymmetrical crimson single shoulder strap dress, an intelligently sexy trench dress cut to nearly mid-chest with pockets placed on the sleeve and elsewhere. Is Jose Duran an artist or a designer? Some would say the two are not mutually exclusive. In Duran’s case his Spring 2011 collection demonstrates that he is more an artist with the intentions of a designer. Maybe the two can remain mutually exclusive, but in Duran’s case his collection will be wonderfully complete when he can meld the two.Sam Francois
Ports 1961 Spring 2011 CollectionSeptember 15, 2010
Going to a Ports 1961 show is an experiment in pushing the limits of claustrophobia in wide open spaces. Onlookers at the show were nearly hanging off the seams of the tent because there was literally no room in the large space. This may be a testament to the popularity of the brand and it is with good reason. Fiona Cibani put on a display at the Ports show that illustrated the positive evolution of the collection. There’s growth here. Past collections demonstrated the ability to come up with new themes and present entirely different items. This season’s collection may have a new theme for the Ports 1961 collection but it is firmly rooted in established fashion. Using muted colors like dune/beige, ivory, gray juxtaposed against a flash of brilliance in with brighter colors like sap green, violet and azure, Cibani captured the look of a season without destroying conventions of fashion. She may have merely manipulated them to good effect. Standouts of the collection include the Dune Utilitarian Jacket, Amethyst sculptured dress and the Pyrite mineral dress.
Something in this collection will find it’s way into the wardrobe of discerning fashion tastes. With a strong presentation such as this one there’s no reason to wonder why.Sam Francois
Jenny Packham Spring 2011 CollectionSeptember 15, 2010
Jenny Packham showed mastery at creating dresses, gowns and formal wear. Packham displayed her collection bright and early Monday morning to a full audience. Packham has shown in London in the past and is no stranger to New York and decided to put a strong collection dresses, shorts and… more dresses. Strong pieces included the heavily beaded silk french chiffon top, with the heavy silk crepe high waisted pants/ The De Gournay handpainted silk crepe de chine short dress was seductive and subtle. Packham’s collection didn’t wow, startle or jostle but it didn’t underwhelm either. It showed her stregnths as a designer and her ability to use detail and color to great effect. It’s not entirely crazy to say that someone will be walking the red carpet in a Jenny Packham piece.Sam Francois
Custo Barcelona Spring 2011 CollectionSeptember 15, 2010
Custo Dalmau created what has to be one of the definitive spring collections of this New York fashion week season. Custo Barcelona is a collection that never shies away from color. Last season our writer went looking for the Custo Barcelona customer. This season it must be said, the Custo Barcelona customer may end up being the savvy, sophisticated and yes, daring customer who can wear print-on-print tops and enjoy the multi-colored dresses and intricate detailing on said dresses. Dalmau shows flashes of genius in garment structure; as an example: a fuschia and turquoise diagonally striped fitted pant with slightly wider opening at the foot, is a bold daring step forward for bottoms this Spring season. There’s also the multi-colored fur miniskirt that screams fun and flirty. The violet, blue, white animal print top matched with a sky blue tapered short shows Dalmau is not afraid of challenging convention. If any one thing can be extrapolated from this showing it’s that wearing Custo, at least for this season, will separate you from the fashion masses. The collection is unlike any other during fashion week for both the daring foray into color and the quality of construction. This is a win.
Read the French version of this review on our sister site Triptyqu3.comSam Francois
Halston Spring 2011 CollectionSeptember 14, 2010
Manhattan is undoubtedly one of the most exciting cities in the world, especially during Fashion Week. It is 7pm and I am walking to the address indicated on my invitation, the only thing I know is that I’m going to cover the Spring 2011 Halston line, exciting to cover such a storied line but still not sure of what to expect. I arrive on the street, which is more or less in the middle of nowhere and saw limousine after limousine inline lest one with guests who dare not leave the comfort of their car because outside there’s flood from all the rain. The evening dress and Louboutin’s may indeed suffer with the water conditions on the ground. Luckily, the organization of the evening was extremely well planned and I just had to show my media pass and was already in the midst of the most glamorous guests-each other.
It was not a runway show but an exhibition which worked to great effect. The models were posed in an installation not a tradition runway show which allowed us to get close and see the detail of the pieces. Urban background music reminds us of some exotic sounds straight out of the Amazon, courtesy of John Goseling. It resonates well in the Great Hall of the Gladstone Gallery. The models are strategically placed in small groups on different pedestals, wooden structure, and even in the midst of exotic plants. All these factors created the perfect combination for an exhibition which was magnificent. Congratulations Gideon Ponte agency Magnet for the very successful design of the decoration.
The first room that greets us when we walked through the doors of the exhibition is a stunning long dress with glitter in shades of sand and gray. The cut of the dress is simple but perfectly crafted, it gives way and to a side print that was well crafter. This latest collection pays homage to the skin. That’s what inspired Marios Schwab designer Halston line. “Evocative, provocative and sensual” are the buzzwords of the designer. We find the lightness of the drape, silk and cloth, recurring themes since the beginning of the week, still done impressively here. We find long dresses, with suspenders, without Brettell, everything is there. Femininity is at its peak. This all coincided with colors like rose, cream, coral, black and with animal prints.
In short with the collection and celebrities in tow, this was a beautiful exhibition that is worthy to be admired and made me appreciate once again being Manhattan this week!
View the original French review on our sister site Triptyqu3.comRachel LeBeau
Ezra Santos – Couture Fashion Week (Waldorf Astoria)September 14, 2010
During Fashion Week in New York, several adjacent events are held such as Couture Fashion Week which takes place at the prestigious Waldorf Astoria on Park Avenue. The purpose of this event is to promote designers from all continents, working in the field of haute couture, evening dresses, accessories, etc.. The organization of Couture fashion week, also take this opportunity to raise money to help causes close to their heart, such as “Tuesday’s Children” and “Greater NYC Affiliate of Susan G. Komen For The Cure ”
So I had the chance to attend one of these shows and see designer Ezra Santos. Originally from the Philippines, Ezra Santos has been passionate about fashion and clothing since his early childhood. Despite his popularity and talent in haute couture, Ezra Santos recently worked on a line of ready-made more accessible for all, but still apart from the ready to wear fashion of fashion week in New York. Throughout this couture show in an atmospheres of tribal music, he introduced us to extravagant creations crafted for the majority of gems and embellishments all strategically done to please his particular couture customers. Indeed, the dresses are certainly not for the general public, but there is still a guilty pleasure to see these works of art unfolding before our eyes. The massive pieces of Ezra Santos confirms why only 4 years after launching his line, he manages a to be favorite of high society of Saudi Arabia.
Read the original review in French at our sister site Triptyqu3.comRachel LeBeau
Academy of Art University Spring 2011 CollectionSeptember 14, 2010
Since 2005, the Academy of Art University has introduced new designer talent to people in the industry and the public. Each year the best emerging designers graduating from the Academy of Art University in San Francisco present their collections during New York Fashion Week. As a springboard for their careers, these promising young designers have the opportunity to present their line in front of hundreds of people including people renowned in the fashion all this, in a grand hall at Lincoln Center. A summary of 7 collections seen on the runway to introduce you to the designers to watch, those who could become tomorrow’s great names in fashion.
Recognized for his dyes handmade and water-based dyes, Jungah Lee gave an aged look to his collection. Using his stain, clothing latex and silk while following the Antique trend for Spring 2011, the designer has proven to the industry its originality and passion. Korean traditional dresses being the basis of his inspiration, a trench coat of latex, however, caught my attention.
Inspired by the photography of Helmut Newton, Cara Chiappetta, an intern working for NICE and Michael Kors has more experience in the field of fashion. For her first collection, she has applied to minut detail fabrics that contain futuristic-looking nylon and volumes. Construction with materials such as rubber, silk and wool, yet it is her method of bonding that distinguishes her work from other designers at this stage.
Llewellyn and Louie Xiang Zhang
Being in men’s wear, this designer pair’s collection is based on the duality between hard and soft, this contrast is well exploited for what ends up being a balanced silhouette. It is in a constant continuity that the duo has announced clean cuts and structured carves, knits for men that are strong and elegant at once. A work-in-progress that when meticulous is successful for both designers and perfectionists.
Print Collaboration offered us a collection boho-Rock’n'Roll straight from the 60s, the maxi-dress with detailed ruffles look well done. The mixture of busy patterns and sunglasses gave an atmosphere that had a grunge look reminiscent of a renewed Woodstock. Print Collaboration designers proved that they had a vision of young and fun fashion with dresses in a version for toddlers.
The best collection of evening is the series by April Howard because it was precise and edgy. Working leather in a palette of different brown pieces, the designer was inspired by the novel by Cormac McCarthy’s The Road. She offered clothing lines in a very interesting material and unusual colors and this for an entire collection. April Howard is a collection dared with tone on tone in cuts that were organic and pure. It is a great look to adopt for summer.
Drawing her inspiration from science fiction movies, the line represents a rebel breaking the rules and laws. Working overlays silk clothes, she designs the different layers as armor, cage dress integral part of his collection.
The ornamentation is the watchword of the collection of Marila Korovilas. The metal and inlay with multiple gold and silver beads affixed on the dresses of silk and lace have the effect of creating a rich look and glow. Note: the swimsuit cover of embellishment for a fancy party at the beach.
Read the French version of this review at our sister site Triptyqu3.comroxanne doucet
Alexandre Herchcovitch Spring 2011 CollectionSeptember 14, 2010
Known for his outlandish collections and controversy, Alexandre Herchcovitch, the famous Brazilian designer, presented a diverse collection of oversized volumes in a palette of colors that pop. Less edgy than usual, and dropping his more provocative ideas for the season, Alexandre Herchcovitch has focused on shapes, colors and space offering futuristic architectural pieces delivered for the Spring 2011 collection.
(photography Dennis Hinkson for Papierdoll Magazine)
Inspired by the abstract expressionist artists such as Barnett Newman and Mark Rothko, Alexander Herchcovitch unveiled dresses with graphic shapes and vibrant colors like turquoise, pink, orange and lime green shades in square or applique. The New Age spirit was being felt on the balloon-sleeved dresses that were ultra-wide which was printed basically throwing paint on fabric sheen.
The collection of the designer was coherent and seemed studied both at the level of styling and accessories. The looks were tacked with monochrome shoes and sunglasses in the same shades for a perfect match. Designed by Alexandre Herchcovitch in collaboration with the brand Mykita, glasses with colored lenses graphics designed to match your clothes for a unified and dignified and exalted Brazilian culture. One very good presentation of the season.
View the French version of this review at our sister site Triptyqu3.comroxanne doucet
Georges Chakra Spring 2011 CollectionSeptember 14, 2010
Georges Chakra has mastered the art of sculpting the body of the woman with beautiful creations. Showing his collection for the fourth time at New York Fashion Week, the designer is known to dress Hollywood celebrities wondering what to wear on the red carpet. The spring / summer 2011 collection, Edition by Georges Chakra was created for the glamorous woman, who is seductive and fun loving. Marching confidently on the runway, the models wore dresses that perfectly fit the curves of a modern woman. The dresses were presented in a wide palette of neutral tones and classic cuts with vibrant colors such as turquoise, saffron and coral. The satin band enveloped the body like a second skin. Sometimes parallel, sometimes intersecting, the collection ended up forming a cage or neck accentuating the hips, these bands followed the movement of the body for a perfectly defined silhouette. Knowing the designer’s audience well, Georges Chakra offered dresses for every taste. Women more with a rock edge will fall in love with the black dress adorned with pearls and crystal of the same color, while the wife will love the sophisticated cocktail dress that has a hue of gold and is woven with satin. Luxury is in the details, the line that used the high cut based on multiple pieces could be more refined, at times there existed an abundance of detailing sometimes removing the chic and tasteful originating piece. Overall though it was a strong collection. If you do not want to pass unnoticed at social gatherings, the collection, Edition by Georges Chakra is what you need to bring out the femme fatale in you, from Montreal to Hollywood.
To read the French version of this review, please visit our sister site Triptyqu3.com.roxanne doucet