London Fashion Week
Clements Ribeiro – AW11February 20, 2011
After a long absence from the runway Clements Ribeiro returned for a second season at London Fashion Week. Famed for the beautifully adorned cashmere and prints, the duo are the first to admit that it is textures and pattern, rather than cut, which excites them. The title of the show Romance Darkly was explained with the beautifully printed silk dress and skirts whose damask patterns melted into a leopard print at the top and bottom,the shirts with ruff collars and the richly embroidered quilted jacket. The grown up lady like mid lengths were complimented by stacked platform heels by Charlotte Olympia, a great collaboration. Darkness fell towards the end and was emphatic with jet black beading on black lace or fringing in a cashmere dress.Emily Jerman
Jaeger London – AW11February 20, 2011
Jaeger played to a full to bursting London Fashion Week, who were eager to see how the brand would fair. The notes explained the colours of the season were to be the British Landscape interspersed with muted tones of colonial climes. Tomato red matched with mustard yellow and tan was a great combination in a very sleek luxurious look. Silk shirts in bright shades were elegant and shown with cropped boy fit trousers. The proportions of the coats that came down the runway had been exaggerated to show a large and wide lapel,trimmed with over sized piping on the back, full to the floor maxi, and then back again in a crop to the waist. The equestrian and military undertones which ran through the looks in varying forms, mainly with trims and accessories, once again referred us back to the traditional Britain.Emily Jerman
Daks – AW11February 20, 2011
Traditional classics of the Daks 60′s/70′s were being re worked, mainly in the house colours of navy white and tones of brown for AW11. Chunky knits were key to dressing down the beautifully constructed silk skirts with heavy pleated inserts. The extra long wool scarves wrapped twice around the models but could have easily wrapped a third time. Knitted balaclavas were the head wear of choice to keep out the cold and added for extra warmth to the winter whites were tangerine, green knits. The full quilted skirts, cinched tightly at the waist closed the show full of timeless quality pieces.Emily Jerman
Bora Asku – AW11February 20, 2011
Bora Asku’s metallic puff skirts, pleated balloon sleeves and draping capes were all tied up with bows. Bow ties, bow shaped clasps and then again with bows on the belts. The collection was based on Dr Jekall and Mr Hyde, and showed cable knitted bodice tops seemingly falling into a metallic skirt and then finished with a snood, light chiffon shirts paired with heavy but beautifully pleated wool capes, and full tweed skirts with a flash of green underlay in pleated silk. The sculptural vests, panelled out of leather, had either intricate chiffon overlays which were finished with the aforementioned bows or chiffon under shirts with high ruffed collars. The silver greys and mossy tones were accented with an eye catching emerald green for a punch to this slightly Edwardian feeling collection.Emily Jerman
Felder and Felder AW11February 20, 2011
Rock and roll was the message from these twin sisters by going against the pastels and pretty and deeply into the darker gothic side for AW11. Although it was not completely without lightness, metallic silver skirts and trousers, along with a white studded coat dress, whose skirt appeared to be goat hair, the air was distinctly dark. The studs, deep deep peacock blue goat hair and glistening crystal patterns were added to finish the straps, shoulders, cuffs and belts. Leather bustier, high waisted pants/shorts, and a slither of black chiffon for a skirt is all thats need to show how tough this F&F girl really is.Emily Jerman
Jean-Pierre Braganza AW11February 20, 2011
Futuristic feelings radiated from the runway for Jean Pierre Braganza. The tailoring was sharp, and the pencil skirts lean, leaving a clear clean shape of his woman. If the clothes weren’t enough to project the fierce feeling, perhaps the hair, which was slicked into high ponytails and the makeup, power blush, would. Leather and wool were the main fabrics of choice in a mainly dark and moody palette of blacks, browns and grey, although there was some colour, blood red, in a section of the show which only emphasised the power lady.
The neatly belted jackets, streamline dresses with angular shoulder shapes and cut out details were highlights for the womens wear. For the mens wear, it was all about the tight trousers, chunky knits and cuban heel – all 4 inches of them.Emily Jerman
Jena Theo – AW11February 19, 2011
Charles Anastase London Fashion Week Spring 2009September 17, 2008
I am almost speechless by the talent that I have already seen at LFW this season and it is only Monday, phew! Charles Anastase’s collection created a new girl de jour, a dorky, space age, ultra hip grandma. Giant obligatory geek glasses graced the faces of most of the cherubs, and lent a kooky cuteness to the collection as a whole. Beginning the show with soft cream skirts and pretty shirts, toughened up by oversized camel coloured platform heels. A boater hat, with a soft white maxi, would almost seem like Henley attire, were it not for the outrageous shoes and dork glasses, making it v fashion. Tutus appeared in orange and plum, over mini trousers, accessorised with a hand knitted oversized cardi.
Nude coloured Ra Ra skirts, teamed with soft cashmere knits and nude over the knee socks, resulted in a feminine and rather wonderful silhouette. Sheer tulle layering was used throughout the show, cut to make flared dresses, and spacey ruffle shirts. The show went a bit Sci-Fi towards the middle, turning out sexy secret agents, not to be messed with. And once more back to the dorky, kooky, geek girl from the beginning. 80s bleached denim, with cornflower yellow knitwear and CHARLES slogan badges was reworking into shrunken jackets and billowing skirts. The last girl to grace the stage was a coquettish, schoolgirl character, with crested blazer and pink chiffon tie, carrying a mini briefcase bag. Brilliantly styled, impeccably made, I want it, I want it, I want It!aradia-crockett
Todd Lynn London Fashion Week Spring 2009September 17, 2008
Todd Lynn always creates desirable tailoring for ladies, in an androgynous yet flattering silhouette. Referencing the 1975 movie of Nathaniel West’s novel “ The Day Of The Locust’ a film about the doomed journey of a group of Hollywood wannabes in 1938, looks are assertive and immaculate. In true Lynn style the colours from last season remain the same, smoky grey, raspberry red and coffee brown. Shiny PVC fabric dresses are mixed with luxe feather suits, a show of rich, heavy, textured fabrics. Cropped leather bombers and waistcoats in dusky pinks, black and greys. Louboutins add to the polished, glamorous feeling present, and oversized shoulder pads hark back to eras past. The finest gauge knitwear was seen in both men’s and womenswear collections, in blacks and greys. One of the statement looks was an extreme feathered graduated cap sleeve dress, in a quirky hourglass shape. Splashed of disco brights were added with hot pink waistcoats and
The menswear was a combo of slick and casual and rock’n’ roll. Grey knitted trousers with pink knee pads. Structured, streamlined tailoring, that Lynn does best was abundant, but this season with sheer jersey knit sleeves to add a quirk. Lacquered feathers were added as embellishment to Men’s shirts, Louboutin supplying a men’s chukka boot, designed especially for the show. Marvellous!aradia-crockett
Jaeger London London Fashion Week Spring 2009September 17, 2008
For a brand that is only showing for its second season, the hype surrounding the Jaeger London show was massive. The attention to detail was phenomenal, and the collection was large, so to describe every little thing is almost impossible. Most certainly a 70’s hippie lady character is created, but a beautiful, smart sophisticated hippie. Rainbow tassel knitted dresses appeared alongside Fanta orange and fauna green safari suits, belted in at the waist to flatter. A soft, billowing peasant smock, with a leather satchel bag, a giant oversized pussy bow blouse tucked into high waisted peg leg trousers, modernising the look. Circular, psychedelic print dresses and smocks, giant 135mm block heeled fringed sandals- creating a striking silhoutte. The English garden appears in differently scaled poppy prints, digitalized rainbows and lime sorbet colouring.
Now lets just take a look at accessorizing, which was key to this show. Made by Erickson Beamon exclusively for Jaeger London, it added an eye catching focal point to already strong outfits. Loopy raffia necklaces, leather flowers, multi-stranded ethnic beads and tough looking metal chains. Milliner Stephen Jones made trilbies, and draped or knotted print turbans, adding a raffish, British quality.
Styled by the super stylist Lucinda Chambers it was cleverly put together, brilliantly accessorised and strikingly turned out. However, the collection itself behind all of the show details is strong, wearable, womanly, flattering, elegant, desirable, and down right fantastic. I am in love!aradia-crockett