The DEGEN Revolution – Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring 2013 CollectionsSeptember 7, 2012
Lindsay Degen is so darned adorable, you can’t help but want to love her. With a quirky line of knitwear as sweet and playful as she is, last year’s presumed underdog surprised us when she transitioned from prized MFA student to full-fledged designer. Being the new kid is tough, but it’s even tougher to prove you have what it takes to stick around in the big bad world of RTW: After stopping in at Industria downtown on Wednesday to catch the DEGEN presentation, I’m reluctant to report that Lindsay may need a little more time to find her footing. The show’s title and tag line (“the REVOLUTION will be CRAFTIVISED”) confused an already half-deflated crowd. Exactly what revolution, I’m not sure—the event seemed to invoke an over-stewed ragbag of 1960s activism, disco roller derbies, punk, grunge, and a little Gay Lib, a la Punky Brewster—but the day’s attendees just weren’t “feelin’ the vibe.”
The collection may have been doomed from the start, given the lengthy list of collaborations: Amy Cakes as co-milliner, Meredith Iszlai (jewelry), Claudia Baethgen (denim), Chris Coulthrust (shoe maker), and multiple knitting assistants, among others. But beside the possibility of creative overload, Degen’s biggest mistake was in trying to accomplish too much. Throwing a dozen ideas at a collection to see what wins the most praise is a risky approach, especially when you’re focused within a niche market (in this case, the DIY-craft-obsessed who are struggling to earn a badge of legitimacy), and often the sign of an insecure designer (even more so when the collection depends on elements we already think of as “revolutionary,” hip, cool or offbeat). In other words, where’s the original concept?
You can probably guess that I wasn’t thrilled with the looks overall—the embroidered pizza appliqués were a bit cartoony for my taste, the “Glory Hole” pieces slightly reductive, and the “Up-Cycled Denim Mini” less than flattering—but Degen’s strengths could still be found in the details: I thought the muted-rainbow palette was perfect for spring, and I especially loved the combination of orange, grass green, blues and black and white stripes; the fabrications laid beautifully, even when adorned with sculptural knit details like horizontal line patterns and pom-poms; and the socks and hats were deliciously wearable, surprisingly grown up, and flawlessly constructed. It may be too soon to tell whether Degen can apply herself to a more coherent collection, but I’ve still got an eye out (and fingers crossed) for what she cooks up next…
Fashion Week Models Combat Wear and Tear on Hair with ViviscalJuly 14, 2011
Supplements are fashion’s ‘must have’ item to maintain hair health
CHICAGO, July 14, 2011 — No one knows the harsh effects of over styling, coloring and blowouts on hair more than top runway models. Despite strutting fabulous looks and exuding glamour, many models admit experiencing hair loss and thinning issues. Determined to find a solution, models including Caroline Trentini, Jessica Stam and Karlie Kloss are turning to Viviscal natural hair supplements and experiencing thicker tresses and hair growth. To maintain thick, long and healthy hair, Fashion Week’s runway goddesses turn to Viviscal to protect and preserve their crowning glory.
“As a salon owner and stylist, I recommend Viviscal Professional to all my female clients who are experiencing thinning hair,” said Martino Cartier. “I can’t tell you how delighted they – and I – are with their healthier, fuller and longer hair! Plus, I love the fact that it is all natural with clinical results to back it up!”
Lady Gaga’s stylist, Danilo, reveals that he has recommended Viviscal to several clients including models and celebrities. He has seen amazing results, with hair becoming “healthier and thicker.”(1)
Supermodel Natalia Vodianova lists Viviscal among her hair heroes. “I use Viviscal Shampoo and Conditioner – they are great for thickening fine hair.”(2)
Sasha Pivovarova commented, “I don’t have much hair to start with, and it gets badly damaged with all the styling; (the model) Jessica Stam recommended I try a supplement called Viviscal Maximum Strength…it really works – I saw a major difference in three months. My hair is stronger and more resistant.”(3)
Karlie Kloss shares her hair success on the blog IntotheGloss.com, noting, “I bought a three-month supply – you take one in the morning and one at night, and literally the difference in my hair is like night and day. It has some sort of marine complex – some kind of fish oil – whatever it is, it’s amazing.”(4)
Celebrity stylist Guido Palau recommends a six-month course of Viviscal. “I’ve known loads of people who have used it, and they’ve all said it’s the only thing that helped regenerate their hair.”(5)
Celebrity hairstylist Harry Josh has also suggested it to several of his clients: “I’ve recommended it to everyone at one point or another – Gisele, Cameron, Demi – whether they wanted to get over a haircut they didn’t like or wanted longer hair faster.”(6)
Viviscal nutritional supplements are clinically proven and scientifically tested as an effective tool to combat thinning hair in both men and women, appropriate for all hair types. These 100 percent natural tablets contain the exclusive AminoMar C Marine Complex that supplies vital nutrients needed to nourish thinning hair and promote existing hair growth. AminoMar C is made up of fish proteins that increase the body’s natural production of keratin. The Finnish product works in four stages over a period of four to six months, with many users seeing results in as early as three months.
“Hair loss starts earlier for women than men and the patterns are different,” said Doris Day, MD, FAAD, MA. “To battle the bare spots, I recommend Viviscal over-the-counter supplements… to stimulate growth and prevent additional loss…(7)”
More than 60 million Americans suffer from thinning hair, and about half of all people end up with bald spots or thinning hair by age 50 according to research. Besides heredity, other contributors to hair loss include stress, nutrition and styling. Viviscal is for every adult at any age.
Viviscal hair supplements are available at Rite-Aid nationwide, online at www.viviscal.com or by calling 1-877-333-4581. A 60-tablet bottle of Viviscal, equivalent to one month’s supply, is priced at $49.99. For maximum results, supplements should be taken twice daily – once in the morning and then again in the evening. Visit viviscal.com for more information.
ABOUT THE VIVISCAL BRAND:
Viviscal is the world’s leading brand of dietary supplements for the treatment of reversible thinning hair for both men and women. Made in Finland, Viviscal uses a proprietary marine complex called AminoMar C™, originally identified by Finnish researchers in the 1990s. The treatment is supported by five European scientific studies, including researchers from the Swedish Alopecia Association, Helsinki Research Center, Finland’s Department for Dermatological Research and Dermatological Clinic in Leverkusen, Germany. Viviscal is owned by Lifes2Good, whose U.S. headquarters are in Chicago, Illinois.
Dennis Basso SS2011September 24, 2010
Having partnered with Naomi Campbell for his autumn / winter 2010, it has become clear that Dennis Basso accustomed to dress divas. Working as a fur designer, Dennis Basso knows about luxury and quality. The architect of fur dressed the biggest celebrities and even the hip-hop industry with his coat of fox and mink. Known for his sophisticated collections Dennis Basso rarely goes unnoticed especially when PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) is around, so he decided to create a line of faux fur selling over a million copies.
Known for its exotic quality materials and advanced techniques, it is not surprising to know that even the greatest, from Chanel to J. Mendel, inspired by Dennis Basso. And when Andre Leon Talley is seen the in front know, its obvious there is a renowned designer at work here.
For his spring / summer 2011, Dennis Basso has presented us with cocktail dresses and wild textured accents. Like straight out of a swamp, models walked proudly wearing short dresses and crocodile skin handbag in python skin. The metallic-blue dresses were just as impressive with a glossy look emulating sirens of the seas. Not being one solely for extravagance, the designer offered outfits that were more reserved like dresses with frills cut or embedded in the torso revealing the neckline and a flared skirt golden yellow worn with a bolero with chinchilla.
Similar to what we could see at the J. Mendel, Dennis Basso worked in a similar way by placing pieces of fur on a silk jacket with a transparent look fresh and light, perfect to counter the heat of summer.
View the French version of our review on sister site Triptyqu3.com
Herve Leger by Max Azria Spring 2011September 16, 2010
Herve Leger by Max Azria has over the years, presented collections that have always lived up to his talent. For Spring / Summer 2011, Leger presented as a quasi Marie Antoinette of the future. The corset, the first part of inspiration, found itself repeatedly in all the outfits in the collection for a look sometimes dramatic, sometimes futuristic.
Exit the fluid, flowing look that could have seen since the beginning of the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, Herve Leger by Max Azria has proposed the molded body and clothing for a structured hourglass silhouette exhibiting a size and a perfectly defined breast. The complex construction of these romantic dresses were made from dense and tightly woven stripes both horizontally and vertically for a sublime look.
At this wonderful show, we saw the right to dress in neutral tones with a touch of pastel and silver cut from fabricated materials modeling as a second skin. Dresses with printed lace in shades of peach and black were popular with the crowd as the long evening gown shams made bandages for a more theatrical look. True to himself, the creator has turned lingerie 18th century, using feminine dresses and high style. Wear the corset under a redesigned perforated leather jacket and suede open toe mules for a look more casual and accessible in all sensuality.
Herve Leger by Max Azria is unquestionably my heart’s pick of the week!
Read the French review for this collection on our sister site Triptyqu3.com.
Catherine Malandrino Spring 2011 CollectionSeptember 14, 2010
Getting entrance into a Catherine Malandrino show is at times like trying to have an audience with the Pope. This season though the designer gave the general public a real treat. As evidenced from the video above, onlookers were able to view the entire collection, Malandrino decided to show her collection at the reflecting pool near Lincoln Center. This coup proved to be very intelligent as her show had arguably the largest audience possible. As for the collection itself, Catherine Malandrino proved once again why she is a master of design. Using a hybrid of watercolor print flowy dresses and leather macramé gladiator sandals (all over the knee) Malandrino showed a different side of the Spring 2011 season. One particular standout was an animal-print halter jumpsuit that simply was begging for a Hollywood actress (or the Hollywood actress in you) to wear it.
Here’s to hoping that Malandrino makes this open market fashion show a seasonal occurrence, if this collection is any indication, future ones will be too good to pass up.
LNA Spring 2011 Collection – New York Fashion WeekSeptember 10, 2010
(click pictures to see full size images)
This Spring, the California duo LNA offers us a line that is vibrant with an attitude. True to their aesthetics, designers Lauren Alexander and April Leigh gave us 17 looks that exude contemporary youth culture and rock n ‘roll. The new collection of LNA was static but attractive. Known for having revamped the common t-shirt making it edgy for men and stylish for women, the duo proved once again their skill and versatility. They did this transforming the simplest parts of a key element of the season. LNA offers a comfortable collection with the basic geometric cuts sculpting the body without giving too much away. For 2011, they offer designer pieces in classic colors black, white and gray, but it is unquestionably the basic melon color that attracts attention. Robes, cotton t-shirt with further cuts in cardigans and crisp candy colors become essential for the moderate rebel. For the casual look of a depraved musical culture, LNA is the brand to have for the summer. Refreshing as a holiday romance that breathes rock, smoking and the I-can-care less attitude.
Read the original review in French at out sister site Triptyqu3.com
photography – Roxanne Doucet
Retro – Balenciaga Spring 2000October 1, 2008
How to you take a fashion house from the absolute pits to being one of the premiere collections in the world? Ask Balenciaga’s Nicolas Ghesquiere. He may not want to give you the complete recipe as he’s perfected it, and has kept it as much a secret as Coca Cola has kept their formula hidden deep in caverns on Mars.
Ghesuiere was given two unenviable tasks early in his career at Balenciaga. The first task was given to someone who was very low in the pecking order. His job was simple, work in licensing for Asia creating uniforms and funeral clothes. With acknowledgments to an overt pun, the job bored him to death. There were also rumblings that the fashion house might not be around much longer thanks to the handiwork of Josephus Thimister. The last straw for the heads of Balenciaga was when Thimister held a show where he paraded models down the runway with a live band playing what revelers called “god-awful noise.”
Thimister’s role was cut short after that stunt, Ghesquiere was picked up after languishing in the funeral/Japanese licenses department and the rest can be written for an encylcopedia.
Fast Forward two seasons later and Ghesquiere is in the midst of re-creating the Balenciaga silhouette. The voluminous blouson became his calling card as well as his knack for creating collections that dramatically evolved year after year. Over the course of several seasons, Ghesquiere’s creations hit critical mass. The Spring 2000 collection was the clarion call that said Ghesquiere could work on the same schedule as Marc Jacobs, Galliano and Stella McCartney.
Ghesquiere was praised for his loose sack dresses, his coats with dolman sleeves as well as the pleated pants tapered at the bottom. He was moving Balenciaga forward while paying homage to its history. Ghesquiere is now a part of Balenciaga’s fabric. His name is inseparable from the term second renaissance at Balenciaga, and with good reason his evolution early on has made him one of the top designers in the world.
Fashion week. It’s here folks.September 8, 2008
published September 4, 2008
New York fashion week will soon be upon us and the stakes are high. As a member of our London team some seasons back and witnessing the rise of Gareth Pugh, Marios Schwab and Christopher Kane, my expectations are through the roof. Naturally New York is where it’s at. It’s my favorite city and home to my favorite shops, celebrities and personalities. Although many places remain unexplored on my roster of cities to visit, I’m convinced that the world is no match for the Big Apple. However ,in recent years (and several seasons) this city has played it safe. Namely American design. Be it the economy, the fact that we’ve seen it all or our wishing well has dried up is anyone’s guess.
Once upon a time Marc Jacobs was edgy, Proenza and Schouler were the “it boys” and Imitation of Christ was pretty cool. Well it seems we’ve gone officially commercial. After organic diets, Target capsule collections and falls from grace, America’s crass thirst for commerce has gotten the best of its artistic nature. We’ve reached the period where we’ve hit our stride and have surrendered to our comfort zones. Afterall when one discovers a formula that works, why rock the boat? But this isn’t a hitch against the aforementioned. It’s merely a desire to see something new in the city named New York. But all is not lost. For starters Alexander Wang’s fall collection left me wanting more. His neutral palette and industrialized downtown vibe was a perfect contrast to the tailored silhouettes that appeared this season. Other favorites are Rodarte for their ability to blend texture and color and L’Wren Scott for her silhouettes. But most of all I am excited to see what I’ve never seen before. There are a slew of Parson’s Grads vying for the spotlight this season and that’s always a treat. It’ll be an even sweeter treat to see who’s around this time next year.
After season upon season of supremely feminine frocks, I’ve a hunch that we’re in for a return to androgyny or at least a more subversive take on Spring 2009. Pants? Shorts? Hopefully this isn’t too much to ask. However, whatever happens this season, Papierdoll will be there in the trenches, whether sitting front row or standing in the far corners of the room. No designer will be spared. No creation unstudied and no opinion left in question. After all this isn’t politics, it’s fashion.
South Africa Holds Fashion WeekAugust 19, 2008
Capetown South Africa was the site of a fashion week that brought illumination to a continent and country filled with traditionally bad news from the media. The event featured a myriad of South African and international designers that each showcased the best of continent. The Spring/Summer collections came from South African designers like Themba Mngomezulu of the clothing label, Darkie, Gavin Rajah who was the only South African invited to show his collection in Paris, designer David Tiale who worked wonders with sequins and several others. The event was a success by all accounts as the spotlight on the country proved to tempting to pass up for the talented designers.
There’s already talk of holding more events throughout the year to showcase the talent of these designers.
Devi Kroell Preparing Ready to Wear lineJune 18, 2008
The name Devi Kroell is synonymous with prolific accessories design. Having won awards and garnering more sales each year, Kroell is apparently looking for the next mountain to climb. According to an article in WWD today, that mountain is Ready to Wear fashions. Kroell is looking to step into the crowded arena with her name and accessories line as the primary booster for this endeavor. Kroell tell WWD that she feels her accessories “need a little bit of a backdrop, something very unique that fits them and complements them,” She continues, “I think it’s a really natural continuation of what I have been doing so far. I started with bags, and then my clients asked for shoes, so I started making shoes.”
The high end range is looking to sell pants at $790 pricepoints, $1,600 for dresses and $2,000 for suits. The line will debut in January and a small presentation is set for New York fashion Week at the same time.
online: Devi Kroell