Fashion design

Graeme Armour Spring 2011 Collection
September 16, 2010

For his latest collection, Graeme Armour offered something far less charged than what he has us accustomed. Inspired by Balenciaga and Courreges of the 60s, the designer gave us a strongly interesting second collection . The clothing structures and material mixture attracted our attention to this new player in New York fashion.


photography Rachel LeBeau for Papierdoll / Triptyqu3.com

For his Spring / Summer 2011 line, Graeme Armour did not go in the color. Rather, he focused on a pallet made of white, beige and black. Despite a range of more sober colors, the designer still went with originality. The styling was, without exception, well executed and perfectly arranged. The clothes were structured while retaining a touch of femininity. Use of beige and black suede made a key addition to the collection. A-line dresses with or without sleeves were parts of the collection. In what has to be an original idea of the designer, he added in each dress little hints of other colors in the collection. With the insertion of fabric, he came to play with different lengths at the hem.

Perfectly arranged to look more traditionally like skirts it created a visage that’s definitely a signature of Graeme Armour. Suede, arranged in an almost transparent veil was also been able to attract our attention. Despite the fact that he has used what seems to be only three colors for his entire collection, it could easily fall into the monotony and redundancy. Instead, the collection has its good use of material mixtures, the effect of color block and transparency versus opacity. In short, it is a good idea to continue to watch Graeme Armour, as he will undoubtedly succeed in carving out a prominent place in fashion.

Read the French review of Graeme Armour on our sister site Triptyqu3.com

Manuel De La Cruz Spring 2011 collection
September 16, 2010

(photography Roxanne Doucet for Papierdoll / Tryptiqu3.com

Guatemalan designer Manuel De La Cruz offered us his latest Spring-Summer 2011 collection titled “Semana Santa”. Inspired by the famous religious festival of Andalusia, Manuel De La Cruz pushed creativity to offer a line focusing on black and purple. The entire collection had the aformentioned colors and accented with blue and pale pink gives us something sophisticated and still fairly traditional. The women’s collection, consisted of cocktail dresses in silk, chiffon and satin falling perfectly on the models who walked before our eyes. For the men’s collection, the suit was in the spotlight, and in all colors. A mix again of classic fabrics and details that made him a little more modern and unique in wool and silk joined with satin. These mixtures were found both in the pants and jackets. The collection was sober, clear and fun to watch.

Special mention, Manuel de la Cruz is actively involved with the Leslie Munzer Neurological Institute of Long Island a nonprofit organization whose mission is to provide information to people suffering from imbalance or neurological disease and their families. Funds raised by the Lesle Munzer Neurological Institute of Long Island create news programs, support groups and research to find solutions regarding neurological problems.

G-Star Spring 2011 Collection
September 16, 2010

It was in a relaxed nautical atmosphere at the Pier 94 port terminal along the river in Manhattan that the G-Star Raw presentation took place. There was a red carpet prepared for the occasion for guests that arrived before a horde of reporters crowded to sketch the best looks of celebrities.

It was amidst fresh and intoxicating music that opened the show that had the feeling of being overseas. True to it’s reputation, G-Star has been innovative in terms of cuts, washes and shades of denim from indigo to faded denim. The theme of the desert explorer was represented in shades of sand, white and blue including cargo style that was overall “denim-looking”. With his new collection, G-Star has given an interesting twist by including parts of asymmetrical zippers and extra large pockets and combining the military look which is famous for the line. Perfect to counter inclement weather, the waterproof hooded nylon loose-style parachute pants and denim offered an interesting mix of raw materials combining the rigid and the fluid.

More cautious than the previous season, G-Star has built on safe values by opting for comfortable clothing. A modern touch showing the versatility of denim clothing that always reinvents itself every season a bit.

Read the French version of this review at our sister site Triptyqu3.com

Jose Duran Spring 2011 Collection
September 15, 2010

Is Jose Duran ready for primetime? Is he the next (insert major designer here)? Not quite yet, though that’s not to say it won’t happen, it will. Duran shows flashes of brilliance challenging normal conventions of design. He constructed a collection of solid monotone colors with a red thrown in here or there. The collection was decidedly dark and different compared to what one would normally find at a conventional New York fashion show. Highlights of the collection include an asymmetrical crimson single shoulder strap dress, an intelligently sexy trench dress cut to nearly mid-chest with pockets placed on the sleeve and elsewhere. Is Jose Duran an artist or a designer? Some would say the two are not mutually exclusive. In Duran’s case his Spring 2011 collection demonstrates that he is more an artist with the intentions of a designer. Maybe the two can remain mutually exclusive, but in Duran’s case his collection will be wonderfully complete when he can meld the two.

Georges Chakra Spring 2011 Collection
September 14, 2010

Georges Chakra has mastered the art of sculpting the body of the woman with beautiful creations. Showing his collection for the fourth time at New York Fashion Week, the designer is known to dress Hollywood celebrities wondering what to wear on the red carpet. The spring / summer 2011 collection, Edition by Georges Chakra was created for the glamorous woman, who is seductive and fun loving. Marching confidently on the runway, the models wore dresses that perfectly fit the curves of a modern woman. The dresses were presented in a wide palette of neutral tones and classic cuts with vibrant colors such as turquoise, saffron and coral. The satin band enveloped the body like a second skin. Sometimes parallel, sometimes intersecting, the collection ended up forming a cage or neck accentuating the hips, these bands followed the movement of the body for a perfectly defined silhouette. Knowing the designer’s audience well, Georges Chakra offered dresses for every taste. Women more with a rock edge will fall in love with the black dress adorned with pearls and crystal of the same color, while the wife will love the sophisticated cocktail dress that has a hue of gold and is woven with satin. Luxury is in the details, the line that used the high cut based on multiple pieces could be more refined, at times there existed an abundance of detailing sometimes removing the chic and tasteful originating piece. Overall though it was a strong collection. If you do not want to pass unnoticed at social gatherings, the collection, Edition by Georges Chakra is what you need to bring out the femme fatale in you, from Montreal to Hollywood.

To read the French version of this review, please visit our sister site Triptyqu3.com.

Charlotte Ronson Spring 2011 Collection
September 14, 2010

For her Spring / Summer 2011, Charlotte Ronson went for a grungy yet still very feminine presentation. It was a rendezvous in floral tiles, vaporous dresses, all accompanied by toques hued monochrome. It consisted of a collection of thirty look. There were shades of beige, cream, tan, pale pink, denim blue and pale gray. Without an excess of color, Charlotte Ronson has managed to create a diversified collection while keeping a good continuity between the looks. There was silk camisole with floral prints accompanied by a short pleated pale yellow that was simply wonderful. Other interesting pieces included a robe and scratch denim heather gray, all accessorized by a jacket of faded jeans. A pure delight for the eyes!

Read the entire French version of this review on our sister site Triptyqu3.com

Blank Silk Spring 2011 Collection
September 10, 2010

Young designer Meghan Walsh kicked off New York Fashion Week Spring 2011 New York with her first collection inspired by traditional Indian culture. In a room of white spotless veils accented with a misty air, she presented a collection of exotic and romantic pieces leading us to the sound of Indian music. Without trying to revolutionize the fashion industry, Walsh offers clothing fluent in ethnic accents worthy of the Rajasthani women. Drawing inspiration from rich context and color, the collection contains invigorating hues and implements in it a world that mixes Indian culture with an Americanized tinge. Referring also to the glamor of the 20s and 30s, the Blank Silk line presents dresses where light transparency and sophistication come together making it look casual-chic. The pieces are offered up in silk, chiffon and organza fabrics, mixed in the colors of precious stones and spices such as turquoise, emerald green and magenta. The traditional cuts from the sari to the Indian scarf are updated easily in this collection.

The fashion here finds its origins in ancient India and preserves continuity in accessories and shoes. This perfectly reflects the culture of Jaipur. My heart leapt when I saw the strapless olive green leaves with intricate detail at the shoulders worn with high waisted shorts for an organic summery look. This was a good effort from a designer who travels through time and continents to offer us a collection open to the world.

photography: Roxanne Doucet for Papierdoll

read the french version of this review on our sister site Triptyqu3

Interview: Melanie Brandon
October 6, 2008

Recently, I had a chance to chat online with an amazing designer who is doing more than just creating fashion- she’s making a change. Melanie Brandon, designer of the Melanie Von Alexandria collection is making great strides in her hometown of Philadelphia with her innovative ideas and is sure to make her mark in fashion. Her latest collection “Superwoman” is influenced by today’s woman who can balance life, love, family and in 2008 – politics. Brandon for the past year has partnered with the Philadelphia Police Department to create jewelry out of melted down guns and still has the time to create a fashion collection, put on shows, and meet with buyers.
Who says a woman can’t do it all?

Rachel Guerrier (RG): How long have you been in the business and when did you realize that fashion was your calling?

Melanie Brandon (MB): I’ve been in the biz since about 1997??? It’s been so long, can’t remember…lol!

RG: Ok, well how did you start your own collection? Were you working with any designers before you decided to branch out on your own or was it always a solo mission?

MB: When did I realize it was my calling? My first visit to New York, I visited the Met on a class trip and saw an exhibit on Christian Dior. Then years later by coincidence I got a job working as assistant designer at Alfred Angelo Bridals where I worked on the Christian Dior wedding gowns under head designer Judy Butterfly!

RG: Wow…how was that?

MB: Rachel, I remember it like it was yesterday, because you asked me when did I realize this was my calling!!!! Yes, this was it! No, I may not have been working under the legend himself or with Vera Wang, my favorite designer, but I knew then- it was my dream. An every day dream- learning the construction of not putting together a pair of jeans but the construction of what’s real fashion. A Christian Dior wedding gown set the standard for me immediately and I knew then that what I’d design someday would not be just tee shirts and jeans but I’d try my best to make art and to follow after some of these geniuses.

RG: Was your trip with a fashion school, and if so what school did you attend?

MB: The trip was with a fashion school that’s no longer on the radar; very small and no longer around. Craft Fashion Institute, but even as small as the school was, I knew this was going to be my life. I also knew no one would ever be able to tell me I couldn’t do it or stop me!

RG: So your latest collection is called “Superwomen”…what was your inspiration behind this and how was it working on this latest collection?

MB: Superwoman collection- I have to admit is my favorite collection. My inspiration was the all the amazing women out there from my mother, to my first boss Judy Butterfly, Vera Wang, Michelle Obama to the powerhouse founder of fashion week herself! It has been crazy exciting! From selecting the colors, working on steel, coming up with these ideas in my head that just keep pouring out- like cotton candy and steel, because women are both soft and strong, focused and they get it done.

RG: This election year has shown us that women can strive to be anything- maybe even President of the United States! What looks can we expect to see in your collection that reflects a strong woman, how far our place has come in society and the fact that we can actually achieve anything we put our mind to? MB: What you can expect to see in the clothing collection are colors that woman of any age or size would be comfortable wearing. From a black-tie event to a red carpet event, White House Meeting, the office and a party. Taupe, grey, black, steel blues to cotton candy pinks and oranges. Because, there’s always a little bit of a girl in all of us. That why I named it Superwomen, because we have accomplished so much and can do whatever we want.

RG: Being from Philly where the murder rate has been alarmingly high. Your last collection Gun Metal Beauty incorporated accessories made from confiscated murder weapons and with the help of the Philadelphia Police Department you’ve worked together to create something positive. Can you tell me more about this and will you continue to use gun metal in your future jewelry collections?

MB: Yes, I will always use the gunmetal in my collection of jewelry. Philly has had an alarming rate of violence and because of this, with that motherly thing in me I want to “protect” the community, the children. When I see those who have no regard for life it angers me and naturally I want to do something to help. The City of Philadelphia is now the official supplier of the gunmetal jewelry collection. They were the first to answer my proposal and in the first meeting immediately said yes. Deputy Paris Washington named the collection “Operation MWVA: Melting Weapons of Violence into Accessories, taken from the initials of Melani Von Alexandria. We have been in talks with Macy’s for a year now and will be presenting the full collection in October!!

RG: Wow, that’s wonderful news and much to be excited about! You’re working on the Macy’s collection with the Philadelphia Diamond Company… how did that collaboration begin and what can we expect to see in the line?

MB: Yes, the jewelry collection is from my partnership with the Philadelphia Diamond Company. I met them through a mutual friend from our church where they and myself are members. There are over 10,000 members, so I wouldn’t have met them without our friend. What can you expect?? Eclectic energy, organic/green-friendly elegance; a mixture of gunmetal, clear quartz and other precious gems.

RG: Seems that you’ve had a busy year then, September especially! You’ve been showing every weekend this month, so instead of having a fashion week, seems like you’re having a fashion month. You’ll be showing in Philly soon….how important is it that you show not only in NY but in your hometown of Philly as well?

MB: It is important for me to show in Philly because many women here will never get the opportunity to go to Mercedes Benz Fashion Week or know nothing of it. This allows the City of Philadelphia to maybe have our own fashion week. Not only that, some women here want to see more than just what’s on the racks in Philly. Also, the gun metal has touched the hearts of so many Philadelphians now!!! Although our Mayor {Michael Nutter} still hasn’t seen the collection, many politicians are loving it and his wife, First Lady of Philadelphia, Lisa Nutter loves the project!!!

For more on Melanie Brandon and her collection visit: www.melanivonalexandria.com

Pixie Geldoff creating Fashion Line for New Look
July 25, 2008

Bob Geldoff’s daughter, Pixie, is getting ready to unleash her fashion creativity to the waiting world. The rock executive and promotions kingpin is fully supporting his offspring’s collection. Pixie’s collection will receive the backing of New Look to the tune of $160,000. Her deal includes 8 pieces for the collection that will go on sale at the New Look store in the UK. The 17 year old designer/socialite will model the clothes herself at New Look on launch night for her collection very similar to Kate Moss’ efforts. The line is also similar to Lily Allen’s deal with the New Look store. The response for Geldoff’s daughter may be more well received as the interest in the line is high. The designer, still in high school may look to create more collections assuming this is well received.

Manolo Blahnik Wins Rodeo Drive Walk of Style Award
June 17, 2008

Chalk another award under the bulging belt of shoe design icon Manolo Blahnik. This one comes direct from Los Angeles in the form of the Rodeo Drive Walk of Style Award. For the uninitiated in such matters, the Rodeo Drive Walk of Style Award lavishes honors each year on an iconic designer that has made a difference in the industry. Previous winners of this award include, Giorgio Armani (who won the first award in 2003), Salvatore Ferragamo, Gianni and Donatella Versace and Tom Ford. The award features a plaque that’s placed on the famous sidewalk with a signature from the designer.

In an interview with The Daily, Wanda McDaniel, chairman of the Rodeo Drive Walk of Style selections committee tells talked of Blahnik’s achievment by saying: “Manolo Blahnik’s relationship with the entertainment industry is legendary.”

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