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	<title>Papierdoll &#187; AW11</title>
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	<link>http://www.papierdoll.net</link>
	<description>Papierdoll Fashion Magazine</description>
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		<title>Les Chiffoniers &#8211; AW11</title>
		<link>http://www.papierdoll.net/themag/2011/02/24/les-chiffoniers-aw11/</link>
		<comments>http://www.papierdoll.net/themag/2011/02/24/les-chiffoniers-aw11/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 24 Feb 2011 21:21:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Emily Jerman</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Fashionweek]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[AW11]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Les Chiffoniers]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[London Fashion Week]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.papierdoll.net/?p=12376</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[This should be the perfect season for this label. Leather is everywhere now and they were one of the first to utilise is so much way back when with leather leggings, so can be masterful in ruling this fabric. Leena Similu has turned her attention from the signature legging to the form of the dress. The material (recycled from old creations) has been manipulated into various forms; patchwork, layered strips, panels and embellished with lighter fabrics such as pleated chiffon and net to create a new body of work which is structured and soft. As with many presentations this season a short film accompanies the work to show off the clothes in a different media. - Emily Jerman]]></description>
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		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
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		<item>
		<title>Mark Fast &#8211; AW11</title>
		<link>http://www.papierdoll.net/themag/2011/02/24/mark-fast-aw11/</link>
		<comments>http://www.papierdoll.net/themag/2011/02/24/mark-fast-aw11/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 24 Feb 2011 21:10:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Emily Jerman</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Fashionweek]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[AW11]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[London Fashion Week]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Mark Fast]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Mark Fast is all about the knit, it&#8217;s his signature and trademark, so it was a little surprising to see the runway filling with leather and chiffon looks. Whilst the knit wear is ever progressive and hugs to the girls body like a second skin, the introduction of bigger sculptured pieces such as the accordion cardigan, oversized shoulder dress and the full length gown were stunning. The leather was just hard to read. The shape was simple, perhaps too much so. I realise you can&#8217;t knit with leather, although I could be wrong, so perhaps he is working on a new technique for next season and this was a slow introduction. I do hope so. - Emily Jerman]]></description>
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		<slash:comments>1</slash:comments>
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		<item>
		<title>Paul Smith &#8211; AW11</title>
		<link>http://www.papierdoll.net/themag/2011/02/24/paul-smith-aw11/</link>
		<comments>http://www.papierdoll.net/themag/2011/02/24/paul-smith-aw11/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 24 Feb 2011 20:59:40 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Emily Jerman</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Fashionweek]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[AW11]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[London Fashion Week]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Paul Smith]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.papierdoll.net/?p=12374</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Paul Smith is a master of the English tom-boy. Dapper tailoring and knitwear with a slight eccentricity was the flavour for AW11, a look which is very much falling back into favour with the menswear at the moment. Nearly every girl sent down the runway was in trousers, be it rolled up boyfriend fit jeans, cords, or cigarette pants. Accents of bright colour were thrown in to keep the attention and feminine fabrics such a chiffon and silk punctuated the tweeds and denim to confirm to us we were watching the womenswear show. Shamelessly geeky, this librarian has taste. Much like Margaret Howell, Paul Smith is a long time favourite and these shows are how to showcase the British at their best. - Emily Jerman]]></description>
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		<slash:comments>1</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Holly Fulton &#8211; AW11</title>
		<link>http://www.papierdoll.net/themag/2011/02/24/holly-fulton-aw11/</link>
		<comments>http://www.papierdoll.net/themag/2011/02/24/holly-fulton-aw11/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 24 Feb 2011 20:17:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Emily Jerman</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Fashionweek]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[AW11]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Holly Fulton]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[London Fashion Week]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.papierdoll.net/?p=12373</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[There was bound to be colour, and there was an abundance. The elegant lady who walked was, in part, the result of Fulton&#8217;s intense interest with the Coco Chanel and Duke of Westminster affair when in Scotland. Chic tweed shift dresses in brilliant yellow and black, pearl encrusted jackets matched with pink and purple print wide legged trousers, embellished hats and fur trims. The prints of skylines and art nouveau design were of the same period, and involved a summer like palette of teal, mint and peach with navy touches on fabulous flowing column dresses and trousers.  The collection was punchy and experimental, more evolved from last season, and better for it. - Emily Jerman]]></description>
		<wfw:commentRss>http://www.papierdoll.net/themag/2011/02/24/holly-fulton-aw11/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>1</slash:comments>
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		<item>
		<title>David Koma &#8211; AW11</title>
		<link>http://www.papierdoll.net/themag/2011/02/24/david-koma-aw11/</link>
		<comments>http://www.papierdoll.net/themag/2011/02/24/david-koma-aw11/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 24 Feb 2011 19:57:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Emily Jerman</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Fashionweek]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[AW11]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[David Koma]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[London Fashion Week]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.papierdoll.net/?p=12355</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[It was a big day for the British labels today. On front row was Samantha Cameron, supporting the newgen designers David Koma and Holly Fulton. Daphne Guiness also attending looked resplendant, as usual. Spots are proving a hit this season, Marc Jacobs in NY and David Koma here in London. Clean and stream lined silhouettes for the opening section had varying sized circles laser cut out of the panels or printed onto the clothes, creating a precise and graphic symmetry. Black and nude dominated before the colours seeped in via a face print and pom pom trims on the shoulders, cuffs and finally a ruff style in bright yellow. The laser cut shells were layered over a green, blue or pink base. The spotted capes and long A-line skirts in the middle of the show were a welcome change of silhouette in amongst the more structured shapes, and proving Koma can create movement. - Emily Jerman]]></description>
		<wfw:commentRss>http://www.papierdoll.net/themag/2011/02/24/david-koma-aw11/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>1</slash:comments>
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		<item>
		<title>Vivienne Westwood &#8211; AW11</title>
		<link>http://www.papierdoll.net/themag/2011/02/21/vivienne-westwood-aw11/</link>
		<comments>http://www.papierdoll.net/themag/2011/02/21/vivienne-westwood-aw11/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 21 Feb 2011 22:59:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Emily Jerman</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Fashionweek]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[AW11]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[London Fashion Week]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Vivienne Westwood]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.papierdoll.net/?p=12362</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Set in the incredible Royal Courts of Justice, this was promising to be a thrill of a show. Red Label, we are told, has been developed with long standing Westwood member, Murray Blewett. Heritage and tradition is important to this label and they want to encourage more designers to return to using and sourcing English wool, fabrics and knits. Red label displayed Blewett&#8217;s interpretation of typical Britishness in people observed in his neighbourhood of Portobello Market. The hair woven into crowns and outsized bowler hats amplifies the tradition, whilst the wool coats and riding themes served the country sense. A Westwood show is rarely understood first time round, the more you look, the more you see, and as pretty much anything goes the taffeta cocktail dress, tartan mini skirt and pinstripe suiting did not look that out of place together, especially given the context. Much like the market, keeping looking and you will unearth a gem. - Emily Jerman]]></description>
		<wfw:commentRss>http://www.papierdoll.net/themag/2011/02/21/vivienne-westwood-aw11/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Osman- AW11</title>
		<link>http://www.papierdoll.net/themag/2011/02/21/osman/</link>
		<comments>http://www.papierdoll.net/themag/2011/02/21/osman/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 21 Feb 2011 22:33:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Emily Jerman</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Fashionweek]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[AW11]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[London Fashion Week]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Osman]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.papierdoll.net/?p=12361</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[With a brilliant white runway splattered with azure blue ink colour was expected, and Osman did not disappoint. A basic palette of black and white was splashed with a riot of colour. Tangerine orange winked from underneath a caped dress, bright pink stripes broke up a black leather A-line dress and apple green trimmed waists and bust lines. The tunic shapes were moulded forms styled over a fluid wide legged trouser, and some with an apron skirt. The three piece in orange was clean and punchy as was the two tone shocking pink and nude dress. it was explained post show that there were zips at the waist and bottom parts of skirts to encourage interchange between the looks. A great excuse to order more than one. - Emily Jerman]]></description>
		<wfw:commentRss>http://www.papierdoll.net/themag/2011/02/21/osman/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>1</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>TopShop Unique &#8211; AW11</title>
		<link>http://www.papierdoll.net/themag/2011/02/21/topshop-unique-aw11/</link>
		<comments>http://www.papierdoll.net/themag/2011/02/21/topshop-unique-aw11/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 21 Feb 2011 21:46:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Emily Jerman</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Fashionweek]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[AW11]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[London Fashion Week]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.papierdoll.net/?p=12359</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The vacuous hall of Billingsgate entertained the fashion crowd with a reception before the show. Serving salads, afternoon tea, champagne and juices the guests wondered if there were enough people to fill the giant room. It soon became apparent that there were plenty. As usual Philip Green took his place with his fist lady to the left. This season Anna Wintour. Lights went down and music belted out from Disney&#8217;s 101 Dalmatians referencing Cruella De Vil. It was all the show notes we needed as the first look walked out &#8211; black and white spotted faux fur coat and the hair in minnie mouse style ears. The collection was fun and flirty, as its meant to be. The spots were everywhere; stoles, gloves, shoes and coats. Glamourous New York 1920&#8242;s &#8211; 40&#8242;s was interpreted - be it architectural prints, tea dresses or pinstriped suiting, and so leaning ever toward the new American market TopShop has found since its NY opening. -Emily Jerman]]></description>
		<wfw:commentRss>http://www.papierdoll.net/themag/2011/02/21/topshop-unique-aw11/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>1</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Margaret Howell &#8211; AW11</title>
		<link>http://www.papierdoll.net/themag/2011/02/21/margaret-howell-aw11/</link>
		<comments>http://www.papierdoll.net/themag/2011/02/21/margaret-howell-aw11/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 21 Feb 2011 21:26:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Emily Jerman</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Fashionweek]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[AW11]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[London Fashion Week]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Margaret Howell]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.papierdoll.net/?p=12356</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The intimate venue of her Wigmore St store Margaret Howell was as understated and elegant as her clothes. As the first girls walked the hats and cashmere headbands screamed (as much as Howell clothes ever do) quintessential Britain. Double breasted coats, over sized cord suiting and cable knits were styled with light and delicate layers of sheer cotton/chiffon, and skirts or shorts with cashmere, all were belted with leathers in tones of brown. The flat washed out pink brogues and loosely knotted hair gave an air of undone but yet considered. Simplicity that works, is far more difficult to achieve than flamboyant indulgence, but with every season this label continues to be a bench mark of standard for other British labels to aspire to. - Emily Jerman]]></description>
		<wfw:commentRss>http://www.papierdoll.net/themag/2011/02/21/margaret-howell-aw11/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>2</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Christopher Raeburn &#8211; AW11</title>
		<link>http://www.papierdoll.net/themag/2011/02/21/christopher-raeburn-aw11/</link>
		<comments>http://www.papierdoll.net/themag/2011/02/21/christopher-raeburn-aw11/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 21 Feb 2011 19:59:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Emily Jerman</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Fashionweek]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[AW11]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Christopher Raeburn]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[London Fashion Week]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.papierdoll.net/?p=12352</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Aldwych ticket office in the abandoned underground station, is where Christoper Raeburn chose to present  &#8217;Blast&#8217; in several formats. Firstly a short film, then model presentation, and then &#8216;sound&#8217; added to which photographs lined the walls. Reaburn was &#8220;eager to immerse the guests in the full spirit of the Christopher Raeburn brand.&#8221; Raeburn is famed for sourcing a vintage utility piece, deconstructing it and reinventing it in a different way, usually resulting in anoraks and parkas. However this season he branched out a little more and turned his eye to tailoring in heavier fabrics such as wool rather than his favoured parachute silks. They were delightful to see. Care and attention obvious when you look closely to the details. You can only hope he continues to cast his eye further afield and tackle other projects. - Emily Jerman]]></description>
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		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Clements Ribeiro &#8211; AW11</title>
		<link>http://www.papierdoll.net/themag/2011/02/20/clements-ribeiro-aw11/</link>
		<comments>http://www.papierdoll.net/themag/2011/02/20/clements-ribeiro-aw11/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 20 Feb 2011 12:57:06 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Emily Jerman</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Fashionweek]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[AW11]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Clements Ribeiro]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[London Fashion Week]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.papierdoll.net/?p=12351</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[After a long absence from the runway Clements Ribeiro returned for a second season at London Fashion Week. Famed for the beautifully adorned cashmere and prints, the duo are the first to admit that it is textures and pattern, rather than cut, which excites them. The title of the show Romance Darkly was explained with the beautifully printed silk dress and skirts whose damask patterns melted into a leopard print at the top and bottom,the shirts with ruff collars and the richly embroidered quilted jacket. The grown up lady like mid lengths were complimented by stacked platform heels by Charlotte Olympia, a great collaboration. Darkness fell towards the end and was emphatic with jet black beading on black lace or fringing in a cashmere dress. - Emily Jerman]]></description>
		<wfw:commentRss>http://www.papierdoll.net/themag/2011/02/20/clements-ribeiro-aw11/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>2</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Jaeger London &#8211; AW11</title>
		<link>http://www.papierdoll.net/themag/2011/02/20/jaeger-london-aw11/</link>
		<comments>http://www.papierdoll.net/themag/2011/02/20/jaeger-london-aw11/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 20 Feb 2011 12:31:55 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Emily Jerman</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Fashionweek]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[AW11]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Jaeger]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[London Fashion Week]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.papierdoll.net/?p=12350</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Jaeger played to a full to bursting London Fashion Week, who were eager to see how the brand would fair. The notes explained the colours of the season were to be the British Landscape interspersed with muted tones of colonial climes. Tomato red matched with mustard yellow and tan was a great combination in a very sleek luxurious look. Silk shirts in bright shades were elegant and shown with cropped boy fit trousers. The proportions of the coats that came down the runway had been exaggerated to show a large and wide lapel,trimmed with over sized piping on the back, full to the floor maxi, and then back again in a crop to the waist. The equestrian and military undertones which ran through the looks in varying forms, mainly with trims and accessories, once again referred us back to the traditional Britain. - Emily Jerman]]></description>
		<wfw:commentRss>http://www.papierdoll.net/themag/2011/02/20/jaeger-london-aw11/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>4</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Daks &#8211; AW11</title>
		<link>http://www.papierdoll.net/themag/2011/02/20/daks-aw11/</link>
		<comments>http://www.papierdoll.net/themag/2011/02/20/daks-aw11/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 20 Feb 2011 12:10:06 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Emily Jerman</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Fashionweek]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[AW11]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Daks]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[London Fashion Week]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.papierdoll.net/?p=12349</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Traditional classics of the Daks 60&#8242;s/70&#8242;s were being re worked, mainly in the house colours of navy white and tones of brown for AW11. Chunky knits were key to dressing down the beautifully constructed silk skirts with heavy pleated inserts. The extra long wool scarves wrapped twice around the models but could have easily wrapped a third time. Knitted balaclavas were the head wear of choice to keep out the cold and added for extra warmth to the winter whites were tangerine, green knits. The full quilted skirts, cinched tightly at the waist closed the show full of timeless quality pieces. - Emily Jerman]]></description>
		<wfw:commentRss>http://www.papierdoll.net/themag/2011/02/20/daks-aw11/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>1</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Bora Asku &#8211; AW11</title>
		<link>http://www.papierdoll.net/themag/2011/02/20/bora-asku-aw11/</link>
		<comments>http://www.papierdoll.net/themag/2011/02/20/bora-asku-aw11/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 20 Feb 2011 11:37:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Emily Jerman</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Fashionweek]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[AW11]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Bora Asku]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[London Fashion Week]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.papierdoll.net/?p=12347</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Bora Asku&#8217;s metallic puff skirts, pleated balloon sleeves and draping capes were all tied up with bows. Bow ties, bow shaped clasps and then again with bows on the belts. The collection was based on Dr Jekall and Mr Hyde, and showed cable knitted bodice tops seemingly falling into a metallic skirt and then finished with a snood, light chiffon shirts paired with heavy but beautifully pleated wool capes, and full tweed skirts with a flash of green underlay in pleated silk. The sculptural vests, panelled out of leather, had either intricate chiffon overlays which were finished with the aforementioned bows or chiffon under shirts with high ruffed collars. The silver greys and mossy tones were accented with an eye catching emerald green for a punch to this slightly Edwardian feeling collection. - Emily Jerman]]></description>
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		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Felder and Felder AW11</title>
		<link>http://www.papierdoll.net/themag/2011/02/20/felder-and-felder-aw11/</link>
		<comments>http://www.papierdoll.net/themag/2011/02/20/felder-and-felder-aw11/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 20 Feb 2011 11:09:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Emily Jerman</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Fashionweek]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[AW11]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Felder&Felder]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[London Fashion Week]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.papierdoll.net/?p=12345</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Rock and roll was the message from these twin sisters by going against the pastels and pretty and deeply into the darker gothic side for AW11. Although it was not completely without lightness, metallic silver skirts and trousers, along with a white studded coat dress, whose skirt appeared to be goat hair, the air was distinctly dark. The studs, deep deep peacock blue goat hair and glistening crystal patterns were added to finish the straps, shoulders, cuffs and belts. Leather bustier, high waisted pants/shorts, and a slither of black chiffon for a skirt is all thats need to show how tough this F&#38;F girl really is. -Emily Jerman]]></description>
		<wfw:commentRss>http://www.papierdoll.net/themag/2011/02/20/felder-and-felder-aw11/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Jean-Pierre Braganza AW11</title>
		<link>http://www.papierdoll.net/themag/2011/02/20/jean-pierre-braganza-aw11/</link>
		<comments>http://www.papierdoll.net/themag/2011/02/20/jean-pierre-braganza-aw11/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 20 Feb 2011 10:45:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Emily Jerman</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Fashionweek]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[AW11]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Jean-Pierre Braganza]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[London Fashion Week]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.papierdoll.net/?p=12344</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Futuristic feelings radiated from the runway for Jean Pierre Braganza. The tailoring was sharp, and the pencil skirts lean, leaving a clear clean shape of his woman. If the clothes weren&#8217;t enough to project the fierce feeling, perhaps the hair, which was slicked into high ponytails and the makeup, power blush, would. Leather and wool were the main fabrics of choice in a mainly dark and moody palette of blacks, browns and grey, although there was some colour, blood red, in a section of the show which only emphasised the power lady. The neatly belted jackets, streamline dresses with angular shoulder shapes and cut out details were highlights for the womens wear. For the mens wear,  it was all about the tight trousers, chunky knits and  cuban heel &#8211; all 4 inches of them. - Emily Jerman]]></description>
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		<title>Jena Theo &#8211; AW11</title>
		<link>http://www.papierdoll.net/themag/2011/02/19/jena-theo/</link>
		<comments>http://www.papierdoll.net/themag/2011/02/19/jena-theo/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 19 Feb 2011 20:37:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Emily Jerman</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Fashionweek]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[AW11]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Geommetry]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Jena Theo]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[London Fashion Week]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Norse Mythology]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.papierdoll.net/?p=12342</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Norse Mythology and Conan the Barbarian c 1980, was the inspiration explained the show notes, which also explained the strobe lights in the venue. As the silhouettes powered down the catwalk, the strong make up  (a single black band across the eye) and sharp clean lines were softened by the finish in the pieces, waterfall lapels, rouching on the seam of the jeans and  silk jersey dresses with draped hems. Denim was washed out to leave dirty black and mild greys to contrast the stark whites and blues. Even layered the pieces have geometry within, underlining the precision of the cuts and final look of this very wearable collection. - Emily Jerman]]></description>
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		<title>Maria Grachvogel- AW11</title>
		<link>http://www.papierdoll.net/themag/2011/02/19/maria-grachvogel-aw11/</link>
		<comments>http://www.papierdoll.net/themag/2011/02/19/maria-grachvogel-aw11/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 19 Feb 2011 20:20:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Emily Jerman</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Fashionweek]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[AW11]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Draping]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[LFW]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Maria Grachvogel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Prints]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.papierdoll.net/?p=12340</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Maria Grachvogel was the first to show off site this LFW, and we took our seats in the very regal setting of the Lancaster Ballroom in the newly refurbished Savoy. The darker side of the Brother&#8217;s Grimm fairytale was the theme, but it was open to interpritation and could have  leaned towards the Orient. Brush strokes replicated in the hair and heavy lip colours and block eye brows. The feathered jewellery worn, all from Erikson Beamon, was following on from the decorative trends in the New York shows and complimented the prints of the fabrics. The stand out pieces, were the billowing skirts cut high on the front hem in parachute silk and black lace. The orange dresses in swathes of silk twisted down the back and nipped at the shoulder or the nude and black block dresses. Her signature draping and gathering was displayed brilliantly in these simpler pieces. - Emily Jerman]]></description>
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