Eva Minge SS 2011September 24, 2010
On September 15 Eva Minge presented her latest ready to wear collection as part of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, a collection that was unfortunately not up to all that we have seen during the week.
Inspired by the story of the independence movement and regime in the 80s in Poland, the designer wanted the message “Freedom and Solidarity in Fashion” has given us an overloaded look and in bad taste. Overloaded element and the falsity of material like leather orange-brown varnish gave unflattering and un-feminine results. Eva Minge, known for her haute couture creations presented in Paris and Milan, may have tried to do too much with her ready-to-wear line, a mix of cargo jacket jersey with applied colored stones, waist-band kimono-style strapless gown and rustle for a result devoid of class and sophistication.
The collection ended up being not very accessible. The pieces in neutral colors were bland and unattractive and the military inspirations were badly used. The joint transparency and opacity in suits and dresses in leopard print satin gave an amateur clubwear look.
The styling was off as both sunglasses with orange lenses and high suede boots did not mix. In addition, the models seemed less professional, one of them even removing her shoes at the end of the runway. This show was a disappointment. Large leather wallets, however, were the most interesting element of the show.
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Binetti SS 2011September 24, 2010
Immersed in an intimate hall at Lincoln Center, models seemed to illuminate the dark room wearing long dresses designed by Diego Binetti. As goddesses, they were put on pedestals for all to take a closer look at the fine details of the evening wear. The static display enabled editors and buyers to more fully contemplate the magnificent collection of Diego Binetti.
Critically acclaimed since the collection’s inception in 2002, designer Diego Binetti, former creative director for Jill Sander, always liked to break conventions. More outside the traditional, Diego Binetti offered a collection that has something exquisite in his own style.
As the sculptures of ancient Greece, the models showed dresses decorated with luxurious fabrics, floral details, gemstones and metal buttons. The silk caftans and dresses with lace in shades of pink, yellow, beige or cream all had a gentle and quiet side. Crystals and sequins brought shine to both dresses and accessories. Note: the Moroccan-inspired massive belts and pins with stones for a rich effect Baroque successful. Chiffon dresses with ruffles and the ball gown with climbing flowers, were the centerpiece of the collection showing an almost divine beauty in bloom.
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Dennis Basso SS2011September 24, 2010
Having partnered with Naomi Campbell for his autumn / winter 2010, it has become clear that Dennis Basso accustomed to dress divas. Working as a fur designer, Dennis Basso knows about luxury and quality. The architect of fur dressed the biggest celebrities and even the hip-hop industry with his coat of fox and mink. Known for his sophisticated collections Dennis Basso rarely goes unnoticed especially when PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) is around, so he decided to create a line of faux fur selling over a million copies.
Known for its exotic quality materials and advanced techniques, it is not surprising to know that even the greatest, from Chanel to J. Mendel, inspired by Dennis Basso. And when Andre Leon Talley is seen the in front know, its obvious there is a renowned designer at work here.
For his spring / summer 2011, Dennis Basso has presented us with cocktail dresses and wild textured accents. Like straight out of a swamp, models walked proudly wearing short dresses and crocodile skin handbag in python skin. The metallic-blue dresses were just as impressive with a glossy look emulating sirens of the seas. Not being one solely for extravagance, the designer offered outfits that were more reserved like dresses with frills cut or embedded in the torso revealing the neckline and a flared skirt golden yellow worn with a bolero with chinchilla.
Similar to what we could see at the J. Mendel, Dennis Basso worked in a similar way by placing pieces of fur on a silk jacket with a transparent look fresh and light, perfect to counter the heat of summer.
View the French version of our review on sister site Triptyqu3.comroxanne doucet
Bright Young Things Spring 2011 CollectionSeptember 16, 2010
It is under the umbrella of the GreenShows, event designers dedicated to the emerging ethical ecologically aware NY Fashion Week, Bright Young Things has introduced its young and creative line. Designer Eliza Starbuck shared with attendees her eco-responsible vision and mission. The mission which is to recall that style lies in individuality and not the identity of a clothing brand in particular.
photography Roxanne Doucet for Papierdoll / Triptyqu3.com
The concept of Bright Young Things is very simple, it is to create and reinvent a style from one garment such as the little black dress. For those still wondering what to wear, Bright Young Things offers a way to accessorize the clothes we already have in our wardrobe to create a brand new look without breaking the bank. The designer proposes eight pieces with multi-functions that can be molded, folded, in front and can be worn backwards. For those with imagination, it is possible to convert shorts, skirt and wear the dress like a top, all the collection was presented in shades of beige mat, black, navy and olive.
Exit the runway supermodels such, it models all ages and sizes that we have seen a parade for a portrait quite representative of the company uniform and a collection based on comfort and versatility.The items can be worn by all ages and sizes. Despite the lax styling at this show, the many possibilities of clothing and the very essence of the line were well represented. Bright Young Things does not follow the dictates of trend-based fashion it was created for each personality.
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Herve Leger by Max Azria Spring 2011September 16, 2010
Herve Leger by Max Azria has over the years, presented collections that have always lived up to his talent. For Spring / Summer 2011, Leger presented as a quasi Marie Antoinette of the future. The corset, the first part of inspiration, found itself repeatedly in all the outfits in the collection for a look sometimes dramatic, sometimes futuristic.
Exit the fluid, flowing look that could have seen since the beginning of the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, Herve Leger by Max Azria has proposed the molded body and clothing for a structured hourglass silhouette exhibiting a size and a perfectly defined breast. The complex construction of these romantic dresses were made from dense and tightly woven stripes both horizontally and vertically for a sublime look.
At this wonderful show, we saw the right to dress in neutral tones with a touch of pastel and silver cut from fabricated materials modeling as a second skin. Dresses with printed lace in shades of peach and black were popular with the crowd as the long evening gown shams made bandages for a more theatrical look. True to himself, the creator has turned lingerie 18th century, using feminine dresses and high style. Wear the corset under a redesigned perforated leather jacket and suede open toe mules for a look more casual and accessible in all sensuality.
Herve Leger by Max Azria is unquestionably my heart’s pick of the week!
Read the French review for this collection on our sister site Triptyqu3.com.roxanne doucet
J Mendel Spring 2011 CollectionSeptember 16, 2010
On this last day of Fashion Week in New York, J. Mendel, being recognized for its creative work of fur, we were presented a collection focusing on cloth and silk, while reinventing the concept of fur by giving a more flexible and lightweight to fit in the warmer temperatures of Spring / Summer.
Inspired by the fluid and graceful movements of ballet dancers, designer Gilles Mendel, who created designs for the New York City Ballet, was able to enhance the ballerina look with pleated short skirts and mini dresses. The latest lookbook collection showing J. Mendel was also photographed in a rehearsal room where the models raise the bar in diaphanous silk gowns, ballerinas.
At the presentation, the models walked with a natural cadence to Bittersweet Symphony by The Verve, revealing maxi skirts and pleated chiffon cut on the ankle and feminine evening dresses in shades of peach, skin, gray-blue and pink opal. J. Mendel showed silver fox boleros intricately worked and mounted on mesh with luxurious and delicate fabrics. For a look of ancient goddess or bohemian chic, the collection of J. Mendel offered cocktail dresses with clean lines in length and with asymmetrical shapes. Wear it with flat scandals, the long skirt is a must for Spring / Summer 2011.
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G-Star Spring 2011 CollectionSeptember 16, 2010
It was in a relaxed nautical atmosphere at the Pier 94 port terminal along the river in Manhattan that the G-Star Raw presentation took place. There was a red carpet prepared for the occasion for guests that arrived before a horde of reporters crowded to sketch the best looks of celebrities.
It was amidst fresh and intoxicating music that opened the show that had the feeling of being overseas. True to it’s reputation, G-Star has been innovative in terms of cuts, washes and shades of denim from indigo to faded denim. The theme of the desert explorer was represented in shades of sand, white and blue including cargo style that was overall “denim-looking”. With his new collection, G-Star has given an interesting twist by including parts of asymmetrical zippers and extra large pockets and combining the military look which is famous for the line. Perfect to counter inclement weather, the waterproof hooded nylon loose-style parachute pants and denim offered an interesting mix of raw materials combining the rigid and the fluid.
More cautious than the previous season, G-Star has built on safe values by opting for comfortable clothing. A modern touch showing the versatility of denim clothing that always reinvents itself every season a bit.
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Academy of Art University Spring 2011 CollectionSeptember 14, 2010
Since 2005, the Academy of Art University has introduced new designer talent to people in the industry and the public. Each year the best emerging designers graduating from the Academy of Art University in San Francisco present their collections during New York Fashion Week. As a springboard for their careers, these promising young designers have the opportunity to present their line in front of hundreds of people including people renowned in the fashion all this, in a grand hall at Lincoln Center. A summary of 7 collections seen on the runway to introduce you to the designers to watch, those who could become tomorrow’s great names in fashion.
Recognized for his dyes handmade and water-based dyes, Jungah Lee gave an aged look to his collection. Using his stain, clothing latex and silk while following the Antique trend for Spring 2011, the designer has proven to the industry its originality and passion. Korean traditional dresses being the basis of his inspiration, a trench coat of latex, however, caught my attention.
Inspired by the photography of Helmut Newton, Cara Chiappetta, an intern working for NICE and Michael Kors has more experience in the field of fashion. For her first collection, she has applied to minut detail fabrics that contain futuristic-looking nylon and volumes. Construction with materials such as rubber, silk and wool, yet it is her method of bonding that distinguishes her work from other designers at this stage.
Llewellyn and Louie Xiang Zhang
Being in men’s wear, this designer pair’s collection is based on the duality between hard and soft, this contrast is well exploited for what ends up being a balanced silhouette. It is in a constant continuity that the duo has announced clean cuts and structured carves, knits for men that are strong and elegant at once. A work-in-progress that when meticulous is successful for both designers and perfectionists.
Print Collaboration offered us a collection boho-Rock’n'Roll straight from the 60s, the maxi-dress with detailed ruffles look well done. The mixture of busy patterns and sunglasses gave an atmosphere that had a grunge look reminiscent of a renewed Woodstock. Print Collaboration designers proved that they had a vision of young and fun fashion with dresses in a version for toddlers.
The best collection of evening is the series by April Howard because it was precise and edgy. Working leather in a palette of different brown pieces, the designer was inspired by the novel by Cormac McCarthy’s The Road. She offered clothing lines in a very interesting material and unusual colors and this for an entire collection. April Howard is a collection dared with tone on tone in cuts that were organic and pure. It is a great look to adopt for summer.
Drawing her inspiration from science fiction movies, the line represents a rebel breaking the rules and laws. Working overlays silk clothes, she designs the different layers as armor, cage dress integral part of his collection.
The ornamentation is the watchword of the collection of Marila Korovilas. The metal and inlay with multiple gold and silver beads affixed on the dresses of silk and lace have the effect of creating a rich look and glow. Note: the swimsuit cover of embellishment for a fancy party at the beach.
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Alexandre Herchcovitch Spring 2011 CollectionSeptember 14, 2010
Known for his outlandish collections and controversy, Alexandre Herchcovitch, the famous Brazilian designer, presented a diverse collection of oversized volumes in a palette of colors that pop. Less edgy than usual, and dropping his more provocative ideas for the season, Alexandre Herchcovitch has focused on shapes, colors and space offering futuristic architectural pieces delivered for the Spring 2011 collection.
(photography Dennis Hinkson for Papierdoll Magazine)
Inspired by the abstract expressionist artists such as Barnett Newman and Mark Rothko, Alexander Herchcovitch unveiled dresses with graphic shapes and vibrant colors like turquoise, pink, orange and lime green shades in square or applique. The New Age spirit was being felt on the balloon-sleeved dresses that were ultra-wide which was printed basically throwing paint on fabric sheen.
The collection of the designer was coherent and seemed studied both at the level of styling and accessories. The looks were tacked with monochrome shoes and sunglasses in the same shades for a perfect match. Designed by Alexandre Herchcovitch in collaboration with the brand Mykita, glasses with colored lenses graphics designed to match your clothes for a unified and dignified and exalted Brazilian culture. One very good presentation of the season.
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Georges Chakra Spring 2011 CollectionSeptember 14, 2010
Georges Chakra has mastered the art of sculpting the body of the woman with beautiful creations. Showing his collection for the fourth time at New York Fashion Week, the designer is known to dress Hollywood celebrities wondering what to wear on the red carpet. The spring / summer 2011 collection, Edition by Georges Chakra was created for the glamorous woman, who is seductive and fun loving. Marching confidently on the runway, the models wore dresses that perfectly fit the curves of a modern woman. The dresses were presented in a wide palette of neutral tones and classic cuts with vibrant colors such as turquoise, saffron and coral. The satin band enveloped the body like a second skin. Sometimes parallel, sometimes intersecting, the collection ended up forming a cage or neck accentuating the hips, these bands followed the movement of the body for a perfectly defined silhouette. Knowing the designer’s audience well, Georges Chakra offered dresses for every taste. Women more with a rock edge will fall in love with the black dress adorned with pearls and crystal of the same color, while the wife will love the sophisticated cocktail dress that has a hue of gold and is woven with satin. Luxury is in the details, the line that used the high cut based on multiple pieces could be more refined, at times there existed an abundance of detailing sometimes removing the chic and tasteful originating piece. Overall though it was a strong collection. If you do not want to pass unnoticed at social gatherings, the collection, Edition by Georges Chakra is what you need to bring out the femme fatale in you, from Montreal to Hollywood.
To read the French version of this review, please visit our sister site Triptyqu3.com.roxanne doucet