Marisol Henriquez Spring 2011September 27, 2010
The latest collection by Marisol Henriquez was presented on September 13 at New York Fashion. Henriquez is a designer working in the industry since 1989. She’s shown several times during New York fashion week and I must say, Marisol Henriquez has a style all her own, not necessarily for the general public.
For her latest collection, Marisol Henriquez was inspired by the depths of the ocean. A theme that I think is fairly straightforward for a spring / summer collection. Still, the clothes followed this theme all to well and sometimes a bit too much. The collection featured pieces with bright colors, floral fabrics and silk or taffeta. The styling was rather dated, which unfortunately, did not value the strengths of Marisol Henriquez collection. The use of silk was in this manner was more appropo for bridesmaids dresses in the 90s. Okay this was certainly not a collection did not follow the latest trends, but rather the unique style of the designer.
The silk robes were very well done, but diminished slightly by wide belts woven into the colors of the dress, for an effect that seemed too busy. Moreover, the idea of parading young men in small silver lamé briefs to present the bags was in bad taste. It took a moment to understand why they were in the collection. The audience, however, seemed to appreciate the collection.
The collection itself seemed to represent what Marisol Henriquez was looking to do and her customers will appreciate the continuity in the line.
Read the French version of our review on sister site Triptyqu3.comRachel LeBeau
Toni Francesc SS 2011September 24, 2010
Designer Toni Francesc likes to draw parallels between his creations and the environment in which humans evolve. Bringing a metaphorical hand to all of his collections, Toni Francesc focus’ on elements and concepts as nature and technology from which he draws his inspiration. He created a dark collection entitled “Artificial Life for Autumn / Winter 2010 and has now moved, to a collection that is light and clear for summer 2011. Having represented the relationship between man and machine, he presents this time the link between man and nature, an effort that is slightly less successful than the previous collection.
Inspired by the natural resources, the collection “Urban Forest” by Toni Francesc will undoubtedly delight eco-friendly consumers but will be somewhat cool to fashionistas. The mini-flowing dresses in satin and tulle draped are the imminent trend of the season, had embellished accessories molded and carved wood in abstract forms that brought an interesting ethnic and craft side. The jewelry produced by Nashel Designs flexible parts dovetailed very well with the theme that Toni Francesc displayed.
Pushing the inspiration of nature into the printed dresses in shades of yellow and brown, breaking the continuity of a set of monochrome tones neutral beige, gray and white, Francesc showed a mastery of color. Dresses and silk blouses with contrasting colors of yellow, coral and turquoise brought a touch of sparkling ideal for the summer season. I can say that Toni Francesc presented a mixed collection between concrete and abstract giving a more or less striking but a intelligent and modern natural dimension.
Read the French version of our review on sister site Triptyqu3.comRachel LeBeau
Joanna Mastroianni SS 2011September 24, 2010
A few years ago, this site was one of the first to interview Joanna Mastroianni after fashion week. This line, which is particularly popular with celebrities and members of high society. Moreover, there 3 of her creations have emerged in the “Sex and the City” movie sequel
Her inspiration this season came from the British potter Clarice Cliff who was popular from the 30s to 60s. She was a mistress of the playful ceramic patterns with both, colorful and well defined lines. That’s what Joanna Mastroianni wanted to express in her latest collection. We find dresses and cuts well structured and well defined that enhance the female body. This was all developed in an extravagant color palette consisting of yellow, tangerine, chartreuse, blue, white and black, which use materials such as silk, wool, chiffon and organza. The collection was certainly short (leaving us wanting more), but original. This is a collection that has everything to please for her impressive list of clientele and newcomers to her collection for the Spring 2011 season. We want more!
Read the French version of this review on our sister site Triptyqu3.comRachel LeBeau
Gottex SS 2011September 24, 2010
Molly Grad is the chief designer of the Gottex line and has been the past 11 years. A graduate of the renowned Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in London, she worked with the biggest designer in fashion, Stella McCartney, Gianfranco Ferre and more. Her expertise has led to support Gottex with her ingenious designs, internationally recognized for her sexy swimwear silhouettes original in 1999. The strength of Molly Grad is in always exploring new forms, new materials and successfully translating with technical proficiency as garments and swimwear.
For Spring / Summer 2011, Molly Grad was inspired by nature, water and sunsets. She wanted to share her creations, create an upbeat and frivolous atmosphere. Her greatest mission is to define the curves and lines of her clothes by color, detail and quality of materials used. She has overcome the limitations of fabric by offering us a line with colorful textures. She has brilliantly used a variety of materials. We could see, extravagant pieces bathing in glitter, lame’, lycra with metallic finish, lace, etc.. The colors were equally eye-catching with its bright blues, reds, corals, greens and even the use of black! There were draped straps falling on the shoulders thereby enhance the neckline, hips indentations, etc.. Everything was designed to enhance a woman’s body.
View the French version of this review at our sister site Triptyqu3.com.Rachel LeBeau
Graeme Armour Spring 2011 CollectionSeptember 16, 2010
For his latest collection, Graeme Armour offered something far less charged than what he has us accustomed. Inspired by Balenciaga and Courreges of the 60s, the designer gave us a strongly interesting second collection . The clothing structures and material mixture attracted our attention to this new player in New York fashion.
photography Rachel LeBeau for Papierdoll / Triptyqu3.com
For his Spring / Summer 2011 line, Graeme Armour did not go in the color. Rather, he focused on a pallet made of white, beige and black. Despite a range of more sober colors, the designer still went with originality. The styling was, without exception, well executed and perfectly arranged. The clothes were structured while retaining a touch of femininity. Use of beige and black suede made a key addition to the collection. A-line dresses with or without sleeves were parts of the collection. In what has to be an original idea of the designer, he added in each dress little hints of other colors in the collection. With the insertion of fabric, he came to play with different lengths at the hem.
Perfectly arranged to look more traditionally like skirts it created a visage that’s definitely a signature of Graeme Armour. Suede, arranged in an almost transparent veil was also been able to attract our attention. Despite the fact that he has used what seems to be only three colors for his entire collection, it could easily fall into the monotony and redundancy. Instead, the collection has its good use of material mixtures, the effect of color block and transparency versus opacity. In short, it is a good idea to continue to watch Graeme Armour, as he will undoubtedly succeed in carving out a prominent place in fashion.
Read the French review of Graeme Armour on our sister site Triptyqu3.comRachel LeBeau
Manuel De La Cruz Spring 2011 collectionSeptember 16, 2010
Guatemalan designer Manuel De La Cruz offered us his latest Spring-Summer 2011 collection titled “Semana Santa”. Inspired by the famous religious festival of Andalusia, Manuel De La Cruz pushed creativity to offer a line focusing on black and purple. The entire collection had the aformentioned colors and accented with blue and pale pink gives us something sophisticated and still fairly traditional. The women’s collection, consisted of cocktail dresses in silk, chiffon and satin falling perfectly on the models who walked before our eyes. For the men’s collection, the suit was in the spotlight, and in all colors. A mix again of classic fabrics and details that made him a little more modern and unique in wool and silk joined with satin. These mixtures were found both in the pants and jackets. The collection was sober, clear and fun to watch.
Special mention, Manuel de la Cruz is actively involved with the Leslie Munzer Neurological Institute of Long Island a nonprofit organization whose mission is to provide information to people suffering from imbalance or neurological disease and their families. Funds raised by the Lesle Munzer Neurological Institute of Long Island create news programs, support groups and research to find solutions regarding neurological problems.Rachel LeBeau
Tory Burch Spring 2011 CollectionSeptember 16, 2010
It was in the studio of the fashion week tents at Lincoln Center where the presentation of Tory Burch’s line was held. Thirty models were aligned on a central gateway and proudly wore the latest Spring / Summer 2011. This collection was pleasantly surprising and appealing. Impeccable styling showed off the installations. There were warm colors such as orange, yellow and coral, but also softer colors such as cream, pink, hints of blue and white.
Tory Burch was able to usher the return of macramé in a beautiful way. There was a beautiful skirt pattern macramé, all arranged on a blouse and also a lovely long cream cardigan . A mix that, at a already had me on board. Denim colors mixed with print blouses brightened the collection that still quite muted compared to everything that had been presented so far. Skirts to the ankle, long cardigans, the use of flax and denim were prominent. With this collection, Tory Burch was able to revive traditional pieces that and ended up transforming them something quite sophisticated and tasteful.
I could tell you more, but a picture is worth a thousand words, view the gallery to see for yourself.
View the French review here on our sister site Triptyqu3.com.Rachel LeBeau
Boudoir d’Huitres Spring 2011 CollectionSeptember 15, 2010
The presentation was simple but effective. The selection of models was impeccable. The Boudoir d’Huitres show had very tall models who walked confidently despite the huge heels they must wear. The presentation was not very long, but the atmosphere was subdued and tribal music was nevertheless able to carry us into the world of Boudoir d’Huitres for the duration of the presentation. For her spring / summer 2011 collection, designer Mimi Plange, was inspired by her native South Africa. Her inspirations for color, was found when she went to look at the enchanting sunsets offered ny her native country. Mimi Plange has therefore concentrated her collection around the colors brown, beige, dark blue, green, yellow and white. Nothing too extravagant, just grateful to her origins and her culture. As for the pieces she constructed, unlike what most of the designers offered since the beginning of fashion week, more structured items. We were able to find bustiers consisting of silk and jackets cut in a more conventional way but with contrasting fabric collar and cuffs. The dresses had classic cuts but each had small detail that made it unique. Finally, the prints were large, but fits easily with the rest of the collection.
In short, she was a designer who was nice to discover and we will continue to follow for a long time.
Read the entire French review on our sister site Triptyqu3.com here.Rachel LeBeau
Halston Spring 2011 CollectionSeptember 14, 2010
Manhattan is undoubtedly one of the most exciting cities in the world, especially during Fashion Week. It is 7pm and I am walking to the address indicated on my invitation, the only thing I know is that I’m going to cover the Spring 2011 Halston line, exciting to cover such a storied line but still not sure of what to expect. I arrive on the street, which is more or less in the middle of nowhere and saw limousine after limousine inline lest one with guests who dare not leave the comfort of their car because outside there’s flood from all the rain. The evening dress and Louboutin’s may indeed suffer with the water conditions on the ground. Luckily, the organization of the evening was extremely well planned and I just had to show my media pass and was already in the midst of the most glamorous guests-each other.
It was not a runway show but an exhibition which worked to great effect. The models were posed in an installation not a tradition runway show which allowed us to get close and see the detail of the pieces. Urban background music reminds us of some exotic sounds straight out of the Amazon, courtesy of John Goseling. It resonates well in the Great Hall of the Gladstone Gallery. The models are strategically placed in small groups on different pedestals, wooden structure, and even in the midst of exotic plants. All these factors created the perfect combination for an exhibition which was magnificent. Congratulations Gideon Ponte agency Magnet for the very successful design of the decoration.
The first room that greets us when we walked through the doors of the exhibition is a stunning long dress with glitter in shades of sand and gray. The cut of the dress is simple but perfectly crafted, it gives way and to a side print that was well crafter. This latest collection pays homage to the skin. That’s what inspired Marios Schwab designer Halston line. “Evocative, provocative and sensual” are the buzzwords of the designer. We find the lightness of the drape, silk and cloth, recurring themes since the beginning of the week, still done impressively here. We find long dresses, with suspenders, without Brettell, everything is there. Femininity is at its peak. This all coincided with colors like rose, cream, coral, black and with animal prints.
In short with the collection and celebrities in tow, this was a beautiful exhibition that is worthy to be admired and made me appreciate once again being Manhattan this week!
View the original French review on our sister site Triptyqu3.comRachel LeBeau
Ezra Santos – Couture Fashion Week (Waldorf Astoria)September 14, 2010
During Fashion Week in New York, several adjacent events are held such as Couture Fashion Week which takes place at the prestigious Waldorf Astoria on Park Avenue. The purpose of this event is to promote designers from all continents, working in the field of haute couture, evening dresses, accessories, etc.. The organization of Couture fashion week, also take this opportunity to raise money to help causes close to their heart, such as “Tuesday’s Children” and “Greater NYC Affiliate of Susan G. Komen For The Cure ”
So I had the chance to attend one of these shows and see designer Ezra Santos. Originally from the Philippines, Ezra Santos has been passionate about fashion and clothing since his early childhood. Despite his popularity and talent in haute couture, Ezra Santos recently worked on a line of ready-made more accessible for all, but still apart from the ready to wear fashion of fashion week in New York. Throughout this couture show in an atmospheres of tribal music, he introduced us to extravagant creations crafted for the majority of gems and embellishments all strategically done to please his particular couture customers. Indeed, the dresses are certainly not for the general public, but there is still a guilty pleasure to see these works of art unfolding before our eyes. The massive pieces of Ezra Santos confirms why only 4 years after launching his line, he manages a to be favorite of high society of Saudi Arabia.
Read the original review in French at our sister site Triptyqu3.comRachel LeBeau