Yesterday I had the good fortune to view Delpozo, Custo Barcelona and another menswear designer Pyer Moss.
The highlight of the three for me was Delpozo, Papierdoll editors usually fawn for Custo but the Delpozo collection resonated more with me. Unfortunately it was viewed by me (and other latecomers) through the large picture windows surrounding the gallery the show was housed in. Let’s just say that I expected a showcase rather than a runway show, invites don’t specify, and I assumed the late start all other shows seem to faithfully adhere to. I was wrong. It started on time. And the gallery was beautiful, as were the clothes. Beautiful almost doesn’t cut it. There was a Dior Couture quality to the looks that spoke of modernity and Parisian simplicity simultaneously. As I watched one structured piece elegantly walk by after another, followed with a series of stunning organza, beaded and embroidered gowns, I had one thought in mind: This is the girl Shakespeare invented when he wrote Titania, Fairy Queen of the forest in a Midsummer Night’s dream.
Each season Custo Barcelona throws an extravaganza of a show to display the collection. It could be a reflection of the growing popularity of the brand, but it is crowded! It’s about the collection right? I have to say that I enjoyed this Custo show more than any of their shows I’ve attended in the past. The use of Southwest patterns felt relevant (more than usual), as did the inclusion of metallic thread on many of their pieces. More than adhering to a specific pattern or color palette, the show retained the Custo spirit of warm weather, street style and vacations near the equator.
Pyer Moss had a clever way of showing that allowed for maximum attendees (a must-have for emerging designers) and minimum production. Located at Milk Studios across from Chelsea Market, I was ushered into a line after check-in and told to wait. Wait I did. Approximately half an hour, until it was my turn to be corralled into an elevator with 15 or so other waiters. Upstairs we went and into the showroom. There were 24 looks. I like Moss’ urban style. He made mesnwear feel fresh with quilting and piping detail that didn’t overwhelm the entire look. He understands fine tailoring and isn’t afraid to use it. Though the clothing wasn’t Hedi Slimane tight, it wasn’t Justin Bieber’s drop crotch leggings and tanks that could double as a shift dress either. Think refined but with an urban edge. Rita Ora was on hand, wearing a gorgeous leather crop top and pencil skirt number…nice. She must be a fan of Moss, too.