Recent years have suffered a conspicuous (and disappointing) lack of experiment on the runway, but Falguni and Shane Peacock never shy from the opportunity to amaze an audience. Together they have a refreshingly wolfish appetite for fantasy. The end result isn’t always wearable, but there’s a special thrill in imagining what would happen if you were brave enough to wear one of their creations down the street. And this season, you’d have to be very, very brave: latex-gripping minis, exposed briefs and glittered leotards (swimsuits?), metal machine-part and neon-plastic accessories. The looks were less complicated in shape than I’d initially assumed trying to take in the blasts of high-octane prints, holograms, geometrics and cutouts. Though almost oppressively loud and ornate, the looks’ hard edges and linear constructions contained the noise perfectly.
Much of the line’s success depends on its unique ability to merge costumes with cleverness. Sure, each piece was technically accomplished, but FSP knows that fashion is also part game. This season the sportive inventions were all about space—Trekky ephemera, planetarium lighting, spaceship sounds, rocket launches (in audio recordings and fabric prints), liquified techno music, transparent helmets, skyscraper imagery, galactic pinks, blues and purples and surprising snaps of crystal beading, feathers and spikes—it was nostalgia electrified, and on overload.
The verdict: Being a nerd has never been this sexy. Or so. Much. Fun.