The Academy of Art University show always brings fresh young talent to the tents. It’s a great showcase of several new and innovative designers in one presentation. The Fall 2010 collections gave the viewer many very different fashion aesthetics from Victorian lace to futuristic sculptural wool.
Marina Solomatnikova, a graduate of the MFA Fashion Design program, had one of the more understated, minimalist collection of silk and suede pieces. Geometric shapes and lines were softened by big bouncy chiffon collars.
MFA Fashion and Knitwear graduate Bethany Meuleners was my favorite of the group, though that could be because of her collection’s resemblance to Rodarte. Leather, rough metallic knits woven with chiffon pieces intertwined gave lots of texture and interest to the mostly black and navy dresses and bodysuits. It was lovely and romantic dressing for an edgy, a bit gothic aesthetic.
Intricate embroidery and delicate lace gave MFA Fashion and Textile Design student Naomi Sutton’s collection the feel of period-piece costumery, if that can be said without negative connotations. Because it was very beautiful and obviously painstakingly crafted. Victorian influences and long, loose A-line silhouettes would be perfect for the eccentric, hippie-chic consumer.
Hyo sun (Nicky) An’s collection at the culmination of his MFA Fashion Design studies was very beautifully made and very modern, though it may not have been my personal taste. What An did with Jersey and wool is quite impressive and editorial.
Big, thick, sculptural knits defined MFA Fashion and Knitwear Design student Steven Oo’s collection. Again, very impressive, possibly not very wearable. I can’t imagine Oo would care. The architectural influence is evident, as is the hand and hand-machine knitting technique involved.
Another strong knitwear collection from Sabah Mansoor Husain, an MFA Fashion and Knitwear Design graduate, finished off the show. The lasting impression of these pieces was made by Husain’s method of embroidering jewel-shaped crystals into her merino wool, alpaca wool and mohair armor. The effect, while interesting, was kind of shticky and rather one note.