An unexpected twist to the structure of standard fashion week shows, this was a double wammy. The first show by designer Krystof Strozya was contemporary, minimalist and bold. Taking his cue from the sculptures of Epstein, the collection used linear lines and angles of the artist in the construction of his clothes. Body Con white dresses were cleverly accessorized with giant neon cuffs. China ornamentation in vibrant shades was quirkely added to bold toned dresses, space age in their construction. Manish tailoring appeared in hot pinks and the whitest daz whites. A bit like Jil Sander on acid!
Meadham Kirchnoff followed, with a contrasting collection. Weather or not combining two shows worked is another matter. It was difficult not to compare the two, and Strozya stood out. Meadham Kirchnoff had looked at the staples of a powerful city woman’s wardrobe, classic jackets, skirt suits and sweaters. Rich fabric were manipulated into unusual shapes, cashmere, Mongolian lamb and mohair all included. Deceptive use of flesh coloured lurex, created the illusion that stitching and embellishment was direct onto skin as seam lines were drawn with wetsuit tape. More muted in tone that previous seasons, some interesting uses of texture and fabric rescued a slightly dull collection.