Written By , on July 24, 2015

Misha Nonoo, Isa Tapia, Sara Beltran preshow Miami Swim 2016

Misha Nonoo, Isa Tapia, Sara Beltran preshow Miami Swim 2016

As a fashion designer, when the CFDA and W Hotels gets behind your collection, they’re essentially saying, you’ve made it, we believe in your vision, now let’s get this thing going. This past weekend in Miami, that’s exactly what happened when designers cum CFDA fashion incubators, Misha Nonoo, Sara Beltran and Isa Tapia showed 21 different looks from their collections for the W Hotel. Designers making imprints for hotel brands? What’s next, you say? When its the W though, you already understand that the aesthetic is chic, high-end and trendy beyond belief. There are no cookie-cutter, diffusion items here. Its designed with beauty and sophistication in mind. Isa Tapia’s trademarked swirl espadrilles are front and center, Beltran’s intricate jewelry consisting of a shark fin tiger’s eye and marquise diamond and accents are in attendance and Nonoo’s  cotton voile belted tunic will be a must have at any W.

I had a chance to briefly interview the designers back stage on process, the meaning behind the CFDA and W Hotel collaboration and their future directions. Their answers were as diverse as their designs, but there’s a commonality of purpose: reaching their own creative level.

 

W / CFDA Collection

W / CFDA Collection

Misha Nonoo:

pd: You’ve got to have some degree of craziness to get into the fashion industry no?

Misha Nonoo: Not necessarily crazy, but it has to be a love. I love creating and since showing in New York I’ve been able to show my love of art and the diversity that comes with it.

pd: This collection in Miami being shown at the W and eventually sold, what does it mean for you?

Misha Nonoo: The idea behind it was creating a sort of day to play activity. You can wear it throughout the day and later on its still beautiful for the evening.

pd: The wearer of this collections should feel…

Misha Nonoo: Beautiful, it’s really designed with that art in mind. I think that someone wearing it will see it as versatile and something that works on many levels.

 

Sara Beltran

Sara Beltran

Sara Beltran

pd: You went from stylist to designer and are now showing a collection during Miami swim, how does that feel?

Sara Beltran: It feels great. I think this is a great collaboration because Misha and Isa are dedicated to their work like I am. I wanted to display this passion, this desire in what I create. I love the ocean so to show during Miami Swim with them is exactly something that I love doing.

pd: There is an intricacy in your jewelry creations that’s so different from what’s seen anywhere else, why is that?

Sara Beltran: I can only speak for my approach, but I love the beach and I travel often so in visiting I get to use materials like fossilized shark teeth and shells. I use precious gems along with those types of raw materials and I carve so what you’ll see is something different in almost every piece.

pd: That has got to be a painstaking process

Sara Beltran: It can be, but when you have a passion for doing it, it’s never work, it’s love.

 

Misha Nonoo / Isa Tapia

Misha Nonoo / Isa Tapia

Isa Tapia

pd: When you design for a show like this what’s your thought process?

Isa Tapia: There’s a collaboration with beautiful designs from Misha and Sara, so I try to create something that reflects the overall collection, but remains true to how I approach my own designs.

pd: You’re well known for the diversity of your shoe designs, how do you take that into account with the CFDA and W hotel items?

Isa Tapia: I want a beach club feel, so these espadrilles are light but they also accessorize with what Misha has ready for the show and the collection itself. There’s no expectations, because I design from a variety of inspiration and places.

pd: Is this collection a preview of what’s in store for the future season, specifically a design direction?

Isa Tapia: It can be. This showing consists of that beach club look, but the entire collection can be something different. It depends on what I want to create at the time.

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Written By , on February 19, 2015

There are no tricks to the Ralph Lauren Fall 2015 collection that ostrich feather skirt is DNA. That oversized sweater is part and parcel the timeless classic look. Even when going daring withe a menswear like leather suit you still get a decidedly feminine silhouette. It’s because you’re not viewing any attempts to wow or dazzle, you’re viewing beauty as interpreted by the hands at Ralph Lauren. Highlights include the beautiful fur jacket with deep outlines throughout, a black strapless dress with embroidered patterns, a heavy knit with buttons along the left side that trail down the arm, an uncharacteristic exposed back sequin gown. This Fall 2015 collection has the Ralph Lauren DNA only a bit different. To the high dollar Ralph Lauren buyer, this is what you want, what you’ve come to expect and just a bit more.

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Written By , on February 19, 2015

I’ve always found it somewhat difficult to understand how a designer can single-handedly create a menswear collection and a womenswear collection while not blurring the lines of both and still put out something aesthetically well-regarded. B Michael is one of the few designers in this world that has done that in the past and for Fall 2015 he continues that tradition. Michael’s collection is a sophisticated portrait of a woman (and man) that’s entirely sharp. His oversized collared dresses flare out in black and gold metallic goodness, his deep black and red dotted dress shows a curved silhouette while flaring out and flowing out, his black strapless gown has a slender shimmer that begs for a red carpet. His LBD comes with no tricks just a well constructed manner. Cross over and you see men’s blazers with deep lines and abstract feather-like print, it moves without movement. The elements of the menswear and the womenswear are wholly different and distinct. B Michael fans will take to this collection because he doesn’t deviate from his strengths and for Fall 2015 its very welcome.

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Written By , on February 19, 2015

Oh the cavalcade of color. Oh the paisley, the elaborate abstract floral prints, the near impossibility of pinning down quite the mix of color and fabric. This Anna Sui show was right up there when it comes to creating that retro fall that we know we’ve never seen before. That heavy cable knit, that multitude of detailing on a blouse, the abstract asymmetrical cutouts and patterning, all coming from a richly deep place. Anna Sui’s fall 2015 is warm and flirty, but the sexiness lies in between femininity and the abstract. It’s a decidedly woman’s collection, no androgyny, no borrowing from menswear, just good new fashion pretty. The Anna Sui collection is varied as it is centered on a common near 60s free love hippie-like theme. Many designers went retro 70s for their foray into Fall 2015, Sui’s Fall 2015 is about a decade earlier.

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Written By , on February 19, 2015

Francisco Costa must have had a hard time keeping this gorgeous collection under wraps. When you have studded dresses, paneled leather coats with alternating coloring, sequined sweater dresses, dresses with leather shoulders and leather detailing in the center, circular cutouts in dresses that are half leather and half fabric how the secret doesn’t get out is beyond me. This eminently beautiful and international collection will be the toast of the fall season and here’s why. It’s a collection of dresses and pants (gauchos included) that look nothing like tha majority of collections. It is feminine but not overly such that you walk away feeling that this is some sort of girly girl escapade. It’s serious and strong without the vamp. Costa has a winner and while it may not entirely be about this, the registers will be ringing loudly come fall as a result.

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Written By , on February 19, 2015

If you viewed the Leanne Marshall Fall 2015 collection then you got the sense that there would be oohs and ahhs here that might be missing from the traditional dress and gown collection. That may be because this wasn’t the traditional dress and gown collection. Oh sure she’s a dress and gown designer but judging from the tenor of this collection, she’s the dress and gown designer without all the pretense and all of the fun and most of all the skill. Marshall’s skill is evident in the movement of the fabric of the pieces she creates. It’s about effect and so you get a strapless black dress with sheer fabric that moves effortlessly, you’ll get the high waisted white cuffed pants that shifts perfectly, you’ll have a a melange of colors that are abstract in nature but makes complete sense in an ethereal way. It’s not just wearable, it’s aesthetically beautiful. I’m glad I got to see this collection and will definitely be wearing something from Marshall for Fall.

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Written By , on February 19, 2015

Sherri Hill’s Fall 2015 consists of a bit of escapism. If for that one night you want to feel like that grown up Disney princess, then you’ve come to the right place. After all who doesn’t want that in a ball gown or a dress. Hill plays that up to the hilt in this collection. For Fall 2015 you get nude gowns in either spaghetti straps or traditional full on sleeves and embroidered detailing throughout, you get floral like patterns and sequins, you get pleated halter gowns in deep pink, you get strapless ball gowns with daring slits, you get a flirty feathered white skirt – as you can see there’s not a lot you don’t have if you’re the princess searching for a ball. You can tell that Hill had fun creating the looks for this collection by looking at the necklines, the exposed backs and the overall flow of the gowns. There’s a Golden Globe nominee just waiting for this collection.

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Written By , on February 18, 2015

How can you ignore a collection that dazzles with an assortment of red dresses all in different shape and form and function. You can’t. And if Zac Posen’s Fall 2015 collection were limited to just that we’d be more than happy. But he provides more than that in a beautiful showing replete with a ruby red sequin skirt, a grey dress and coat set, a black fur crop coat with slender grey pants, powder blue sequin dress with an ever-so slight slit, a beautiful lbd that falls just below the knee and has layer folds – this is Zac Posen’s Fall 2015 and it is truly a sight. That black silk satin gown will stop traffic and some hearts and is primed for the Oscars. Naomi Campbell thinks so and made an appearance with the last dress Cinderella-style.

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Written By , on February 18, 2015

All that was missing was the Kleenex and there would have been utter confusion as to whether this was a fashion show or a funeral. And other any other circumstance, that would be a very bad thing, but this is Thom Browne we’re talking about. His funeral/fashion show was just the thing to wake up the fashion crowd stumbling from one collection to another. This collection came in either black or white, if you were looking for any other color heading back to Lincoln center would have been your best bet. The monochrome setting allowed attendees to fixate on the mastery of the cut, the tailoring, the detailing the use of raffia tween, silk sating, woven grosgrain.

In Thom Browne’s Fall 2015 collection you have a severe obedience to the human form. This manifests itself in dresses that obey outlines, plunging neckline coats that mix pattern and shape with tailoring, a skirt with detailing that falls below the waist. You may not be ready for Thom Browne’s Fall 2015 collection, but you still have 9 months to get your affairs in order.

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Written By , on February 18, 2015

Oh the gowns showed up, but that wasn’t the only story during Carolina Herrera’s Fall 2015 presentation. The collection is awash (no pun intended) in water themes and effects from dresses that sport abstract waves, to nearly luminescent effects, this is Carolina Herrera fit, finish and polish, just different. See you expect the gowns that are breathtakingly beautiful, yeah, sure, it’s Carolina Herrera, but the crop trousers, the oversized fur scarf, the brilliant red leather top with pants, the geometric black dress with abstract curved lines throughout, this is variety. And in the end, you’re happy because Herrera provides extensive choice in a beautiful collection that will provide very difficult decision on what to get this Fall.

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